Day 14 Algiers and Setif

Gruesome night courtesy of Air Algieria. Of course we were late and flew to Algiers via Djanet putting us on the ground at 6am-ish. Interesting to see plane fill up with backpacker/trekkers in Djanet - where did they come from? Our bags off the plane very last but there in the arrivals lobby was Faysal ready to whisk us to Hotel Safir.


Very grand I must say. Howard is with us but this will be the dividing of our ways. Inspirational guy - his passport has at least one set of extra pages.
Faysal preps us for departure at 11:30am. We are driving to Constantine (not flying) and with a new guide, Said.
Rest rather than sleep and then F&S are 1 hour late and the hotel can't retrieve the wifi password - go figure.
Head out to Setif this afternoon. The 3 hour drive took 4. I suspect it always takes 4. Put it down to Algerian optimism.
Said's english is spectacular. He is the total package. Guide, sometime journalist, raconteur and self-confessed womanizer. The guy is a riot and we are absorbed by his stories, his politics and hyperbole - not to forget the continual stream of relevant guide-worthy information. Great stuff. James has cheered up considerably.

Faysal is having a good time too - keep the driver happy, keep the driver happy, Algerian mantra. Unimpressive lunch in Boira.

Short debate and we decide up-scale dinner plans in order that we get wine with dinner at place in the 'burbs of Setif that Said knows - of course.

first a city walk. Really good vibe in this totally non tourist town. Historic as point if start of revolution.


Unbelievably good street food


- decided to do street food for lunch tomorrow.

13c mosque


And this crazy fountain in the main street of old town where single girls come to drink the water as it's good luck in finding a man.


Not a problem in Algeria, they are everywhere surely.
F&S getting into the swing of having cooperative tourists


Interesting architecture


Lisboa restaurant. Simple and excellent local cuisine.


Two bottles of Syrah.
wifi is acting up and needs reboot.


- from my iPad

Location:Setif

Day 13 Tamanrasset and depart for Algiers

Very comfortable night in the Assakrem dorm.


Usual breakfast routine and rolling, retracing the ridiculously rough piste back to Tamanrasett. Try as we could we could not get Hassan to divulge any details for the hours before the plane leaves (sched 1;10am). Infuriating. Picked Cherry up at the 6km marker.
Rumbled on down past our campsite of two nights ago and into town. Our destination is Camping D'assine.


Excellent! rooms to change and shower with hot water. Did some laundry while Abdullah prepared the final lunch. Sardines AGAIN...


Relaxing afternoon in the rooms and then we declared a need for a plan.
Abdullah took off to see his family so we said goodbye and started handing out the tip packets.
Coffee and pastries; wifi; African market; dinner; airport.
Coffee worked


Wifi was closed of course, Friday being a religious holiday.
African market - like Djanet but 100x


Then a taxi ride across town to an Abdullah recommended venue for dinner


and back to the hotel where we hang until it's time to leave for airport some 11km out of town. Tamanrasset doesn't have much to recommend it. Absolutely zero tourists or facilities. Lots of staring, not necessarily unfriendly.

Hassan really has to go to guide school.

Finally headed to the airport at 11pm with Akmed at the wheel and Hassan playing guide. I really thought the vehicle might not make it the 11km as there was a huge increase in burning oil smell tonight. Our crew sure seemed like country boys in the big city. Before we went into town this afternoon they all put on best clean clothes and Akmed in particular was wearing his cheche very "up" - buffon style. Akmed has difficulty finding his way around town and the GPS indicates he took a very circuitous route back to the hotel after dinner.

All tip packets delivered and farewells exchanged.

Looking back there is no doubt about it Abdullah is what makes this trip work.


- from my iPad

Location:Tamanrasset

Day 12 journey up to Assakrem

Very very windy but this isn't a sandy area. Cherry is up late


Abdullah has to surround himself and the two burner stove with mattresses to keep out the wind


Locals are extremely deferential towards this guy who wad making a home in the 'new' land cruiser.




Only 60km to Assakrem, how hard could that be? Hard! Eventually stop for lunch in this mainly lunar landscape but we actually find running water although this becomes a study in algae.





After lunch we soon get far ahead of the '82 and hold up some 400m short of the Assakrem dormitories - like I said, lunar.


Keeping in mind that two (2) guide books rate this as the number 1 tourist experience in Algeria are waiting to be awed.
Meanwhile it turns out we have a dorm tonight.


At 4:30pm we start the hike up to the hermitage and prepare to watch the sunset. Nice but we probably aren't doing the hike again for sunrise. The view down to the dorms.


At the summit



Inside the hermitage





And the view


- from my iPad

Location:Assakrem

Day 11 Tamakrest waterfall

Usual wake up routine and a relatively short drive to the waterfall. Pretty amazing to see this much water just lying around.


Had a good granite scramble to the top where the vegetation defies belief.


The crew took advantage of the abundance of water and did laundry.


A long lunch with rear brake maintenance today.


Also enough time for the crew's laundry to dry.
Rambled through the 'burbs of Tamrangasset (ugly and garbage strewn) on to a camp site near the actual Mt. Hoggar.


Portraits today





and Hassan does fire duty.




While Towa (mystery 2nd driver) and Akmed go into town - fuel, bread cigarettes.

Very windy night - tent worthy, indigent indigenous are in the 'hood as well.


- from my iPad

Location:Tamransett NW outskirts

Day 10 Youfihakit desert

Earlyish start and continued to head south to some very unusual formations.









This appears to be our most southern location as we now head NW towards Tamanransett. Stop for lunch, fries


More sand bread for the locals dinner tonight. Sand bread is made from semolina flour. Couscous too?


But the main entertainment is my first shave in 40 years



After lunch we headed north across a lunar landscape


divided by recently wet oueds. We followed these looking for wells. Eventually found one in the dry river bed and filled up.








Not much further and the midst of unfamiliar civilization


we made camp. Cherry and I elected to use tents tonight.


A little easier to keep an eye on things. Interesting sunset now that we have clouds.


- from my iPad

Location:Youfihakit desert

Day 9 Tin Agoula

It's become apparent that yesterday and today are a transition phase between Tassili N'ajjer and Tassili Hoggar. In other worlds featureless desert with not much visual entertainment.
Lunch was spectacular with a green chili pepper vegetable stuff AND that cauliflower special.
After lunch crossed the Ajjer/Hoggar marker


then could see Tin Agoula off in the distance. Akmed thought we could find a better camp site. Hard to argue.
Usual sunset photo session


and another veg stew dinner with soup of course. Very tasty.

Cherry makes first cut at tip distribution:
Abdullah 100
Hassan 40
Akmed 40
Towa 20
Mohammid 20

Maybe makes a point too strongly.


- from my iPad

Location:Tin Agoula plus some

Day 8 Tadent well

Major de-sanding exercises upon wakening. The stuff bag for M. Poufay is AWOL. At b'fast Cherry points out across the desert about 400m and says there is something red out there.
stuff bag reclaimed.. Celebrate with a 'bucks.


Howard fesses up to a middle night nature break - next to the vehicle in the main thoroughfare. Protocol violation.
New driver's assistant is less hostile this morning and reveals he speaks some English.

Morning prayer.


Load vehicles and head southwest then due south across a giant expanse of nothing.
No guide so very quiet in the tourist vehicle.

Mid desert vehicle maintenance on the 'new' vehicle ('98 diesel). The older one is an '82 petrol engined Land Cruiser.


Maybe a front-end alignment at the next stop.


Long long drive today, mainly south, and slightly west for 220km with nary a road to get in the way. Mid afternoon we gave chase to a herd of gazelle.


Small goat sized beasts that are very quick. Much bouncing in the vehicle as Akmed gives chase, photographic quality suffers.

Tuareg encampment Tabort a few km before reaching the well at


Tadent. Very few people around. Talent is not the final destination but another 20km south. French military fortification evident on hill tops.


Spaghetti for dinner with veg sauce.


Makhamid, number two mechanic, is a guitarist and also neither unfriendly nor unhelpful. Fireside music perhaps? No such luck.

Excellent night's sleep, cloudless moonless night.

- from my iPad

Location:Tadent