Friday, July 19, 2013

Vic Falls

July 19th
Nothing scheduled today but for getting across the Botswana/Zimbabwe border. Its about a 20 min ride in a seconded game drive vehicle...



to the border from Kasane and then change vehicles and a further 60 mins into Vic Falls. We had a little bad luck falling behind 2 giant SA tour buses that got in the visa queue...



before the other two member of our transfer party. We had our visas so for us it was a breeze but we had to wait on the other side of the border for the other two.

Got dropped at the Vic Falls Safari Lodge ...



and immediately saw Geoff walking and birding in the hotel gardens.

Took the 4km trip to the falls and took them ...


double rainbows included.


Visited and walked around the old colonial Victoria Falls Hotel.



Classic.


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Location:Zimbabwe

Chobe NP 2

18th July - afternoon

Late breakfast so not hungry for pre-paid lunch. Forced down a salad.

3pm boat-based game drive down Chobe river. Chobe drains into Zambesi and over Vic Falls. We'll get there first (tomorrow)

this wasn't us but could have been


this hotel uses every opportunity to up-sell. Fair enough. We were told 10 times that if we drank the booze on board it could be charged to our room.


then it was a case of driving around the river and observing land and water based action


Elephants distracted during a river crossing


aww baby elephants



aww baby yawning hippo



very non-baby croc


yawning adult


sunset - game over


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Location:Kasane, Botswana

Chobe NP

17 July:
Arrived at Chobe Park Safari Hotel. A tad more up-market than the Etosha NP lodges. Not quite the number of bus tours but still a diverse mix of nationalities.

Much confusion upon arrival as a) the room wasn't to be ready until 2pm and b) the room key generation machine was broke.

Lunch on the patio overlooking the Chobe river was very pleasant. First scheduled activity was the 3pm 3-hour game drive. The NP itself is just 10 minutes down the (paved!) road from the lodge.

Large numbers of elephants on the islands along with hippo floatillas. Yer regular girrafes and impalas



a rare sable antelope (even the Kruger NP family was impressed. All fairly vanilla until our driver picked up word of a leopard sighting many km west of the entrance. We all voted on a gamble and Shauna, honeymooning Canadian, said she felt very lucky about this. Boy was she right. Leopard, female, up close and personal. Made the day.



The light was fast disappearing






Held appetites at bay until 8pm and did the "buffet". Very complicated, its entirely an african, everything is complicated. I'd like to buy a bottle of white wine, no problem sir. Here is the (impossible to read in zero light) wine list. I'd like this one please. I'm sorry we don't have that one - how about this one - sorry sir, not that one either. OK i'll have the expensive one. Pause while complicated paper work order is filled out. Sommelier disappears for a long time - like two courses long - returns to say he's looked every where aand can't find that particular wine. OK, I say, can I coose another one? Yes sir, let me go and get the wine list..... Another long pause. 4th choise arrives in time for dessert.

Very comfortable room and shower. Much classier than Etosha.

I wonder if in the great scheme of things that this might well have been a better first stop after a 36 hour journey rather than Gunn's Camp and its mid-afternoon only for a short time shower. Logistically challenging to go Maun, Kasane and then Gunn's Camp.

18th July:

5:20am wake call - its still and hour to dawn - to be ready for the 6am departure of the morning game drive. We are talking seriously cold in the open viewing vehicle. Blankets and hoods. Where is the puffy down jacket when you need it? Basically traversing the same route as the previous evening with the driver (Ooh-Bee, the very well informed) explaining




that there are no animals because it is cold and dark.
Suspicious and wise canadians posit that the morning game drive has to be early so that the vehicles get back in time



to take out the 10am Victoria Falls day trippers. Fairly convinced that the morning was to be a bust when we came across a leopard cub hanging out waiting for its mother to come home.


Two days and two leopards - amazing.

Hippos still on land - so still not hot by definition


Back in time for the buffet breakfast. Custom made omelletes work for me. We have until 3pm, our next "game drive" but this time water-borne on the river.

The new "larry recommended" binoculars are spectacular - so to speak.






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Location:Kasane, Botswana

Gunn's Camp

SFO->LHR->(7hr at AA)->JNB->(3)->MUB->Gunn's Camp

A long journey. LHR was broken up nicely with a $99 monthly pass to AA's Admirals Club. Pass allows one accompanying guest so that will work out to $25/person/visit.

Gunn's Camp: Pretty rustic camp with limited access via the strip (20 mins from MUB) or boat (4 hours from Maun)

Louie flying a 206 for Moremi Air out of MUB.




Elephant on air strip.


Had to buzz him off. Same elephant who is gradually destroying the Camp.

6 or so luxury tents - depending on elephant damage.

15th July
arrived at lunchtime and then, with the 3/4 of the german family (Andrea, Carsten etc) we headed out on the power boat to view the delta and its inhabitants.
very pleasant. strange to see so much water flowing yet the its the height of the dry season. all the water is from Angola. Elephants and crocodile. King Fishers


dinner: why did i eat the carrot and ginger soup? Disastrous bathroom-centric night throwing up.

16th July
Boat to island and 3 hour game walk without the game. Nice boat ride though.

Skipped the afternoon dugout canoe trip but Dyane thought it very good

dinner: skipped the soup! fully recovered don't want to mess that up.. Australian alpha females have arrived. Dinner conversation consisted of an unrequested explanation of Aussie Rules football.

Its like someone described what luxury is to a westerner and then that information was passed as in a game of "telephone" so the message received is slightly wrong. High Tea? Formal Dinner? Can't help but think that Colin Edwards in Rockview, Guyana actually got a lot of it right after all.

buffalo - run up termite mound. if it charges lie down
elephant - trumpet ok, trunk between legs and flattend ears is big trouble
leopard - dont make eye contact
lion - do make eye contact



17th July
Elephant doing serious tree damage outside the tent for early part of the night. Best line of trip so far: Aussie son (about 12) says at breakfast he was expecting his mum to go out and sort the elephant.

Gordon (from Colorado) subcontractining his Kovango Air plane to Moremi Air picks us up from Gunn's for the 80min flight to Kasane.





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Location:Botswana