Saturday, October 23, 2010

India day 14

Like i said, nothing exotic


Train got later and later so that by dawn


we were 2 hours late. As we would roll slowly


through stations vendors would execute daring running and jumping maneuvers to get on board with their produce





The 1st class AC is what we remember from 1982 but with no AC. Generally speaking the train is disgusting


But you keep your spot clean and your feet off the floor. Got to Howrah very late. Our two compartment fellows were upset - us not so much as the time in Kulkatta would be shortened. Negotiated a deal with a Mr Bijoy Saha, who we found hanging near the tourism booth, to drive us around Kulkatta all day and deliver us to the airport for the flight to Hyderabad. But first we blew $1 on breakfast for both of us


Crazy crazy traffic around the Howrah bridge and Mr Saha Ambassador


was not in tip top mechanical condition. Nevertheless we drove by the Writers Building, The High Court, St Paul's Cathedral and we visited the Indian Museum (immense, dark and boring) the Victoria museum (a less immense and brighter but still boring experience) before having a 90 minute credit card lunch


At every red light the same old indigents were hanging on the window. What to do?


After lunch Netaji Bhavan - home of revolutionary anti-Brit Chandra Bose. Most interesting stop of the day. Then, ridiculously early, we said, Ok let's head to the airport. Not a bad idea as it was a 90+ minutes wild ride through the worst and noisiest Kulkatta traffic. After checkin we treated ourselves to the exec lounge. And here we sit....

Tonight Buskar will meet us at HYD and whisks us to Sree and Anitha's for dinner.


- from my iPad

Location:Kolcutta airport departure lounge.

Bhutan day 13

Woke up at Drukies and negotiated an Indian breakfast of alu and gobi parathas - with hot water to drink. Tsettim and Mr Raam showed and took us to the Bank of Bhutan where Tsettim's friend expedited some currency exchange for us. Then
we visited Tsettim's other friend at Bhutan emigration. Meanwhile our taxi dude Jaggju showed up with his shaky Tata and we fronted $1000 of the committed $2500 Rupees fare (so that he had enough money to fill the tank). Next our 3 staff shepherded us to Indian immigration in New Jagaon, the border town corresponding to Phuentsholing. Then we said goodbye to our Bhutanese staff and threw ourselves on the mercy of Jaggju. Not sure how we would have managed this transition without help from T&R.

It was a long journey, 5 hours, over horrendous roads, with a weird whining sound emitting from the Tata's transmission. Most of the journey was through tea plantations


With occasional wild life


Finally after asking directions half a dozen times we found New Jalpaiguri (NJP) train station. Had a great lunch for 40 cents and generally killed about 6 hours waiting


for this train I am on now



Our train finally left at around 9:45pm, 30 minutes late.


1st class AC is comfortable but not exotic.

- from my iPad

Location:Paharia Express, NJP to Kolkutta

Bhutan day 12

Last night's hotel, Finn's favorite, seemed to be trying too hard to be something and lost the Bhutanese charm in the process. Comfortable room but the main building staff wasn't the friendly. Architecturally the building was a fine example of misused space. The hotel location, above the Paro airport, did allow closer examination of just how steep the climb out is


Notice the snow that fell last night.
Then started the amazing drive south. In a word terrifying. But before the really bad stretch we happened upon the small town of Chukna where the chief Abbott (of all Bhutan!) was doing a blessing. Huge crowds lining up for their blessing.


Even here, in town, the roads weren't up to much


It's interesting how everyone refers to the road closures that happen on and off during the day as "road widening" when really what is happening is landslide repairs. Take a look at this view and count the slides. We are looking back on the road we just came across. This 15km/hr dirt road stretch lasted maybe 30km.


Anyway we survived - hurrying lunch as we knew the 200 Taiwanese pilgrims who had taken all the hotel rooms in Phuentsholing were right behind us. We werent even able to sit down at the small lunch place as they attempting to set up the 40 seats to serve 200. The thought of 100,000 tourists/yr is comical. There is no way the infrastructure could support that many people. Eventually we dropped out of the clouds and could see Phuentsholing below.



For a local hotel Drukies isn't too bad. After checking in Tsettim researched taxi options to NJP. We got that settled and then visited the crazy crocodile/ghariel zoo where two huge crocs were engaged in a strange coupling ceremony




The evening was cheered up by going out to an Indian restaurant with Tsettim and Mr.Raam and eating a delicious meal (and 8% beer)


- from my iPad

Location:Drukies Hotel, Phuentsholing