11/12 Bailing out of Etosha

Last evening's game drive and this morning's were very low key compared to the previous excitement. So following breakfast (croissants x2) we packed the car and headed south. But first through a road block checking for stolen animals. We were good.

Got to Outjo for a late lunch in a wonderful wifi equipped restaurant. The owner was ad ynamo and a study in contrasts with the staff at the national resorts of the previous 4 nights. The restaurant clientelle were 5 Afrikaner mums who were treating their kids (10+) to a lunch break from school. These folks were sooo white and pretty. Seriously the kids could have been child models. They kind of stood out but they are indeed local farmers, not tourists.

Following lunch with 240km to go further west to get to Twyfelfontein, we chose the dirt road option (5km shorter!). Radical change in landscape scenery.

Stopped at the government run (in contrast to the private) park of petrified trees.


Our guide (included) Sussanah, a Damara tribal person, gave us a quick lesson in the 4 types of click used in the Damaraland language. I shot a quick video to capture the sounds. Very cool. In the written language the clicks are represented by '\' and '!'. Odd to see road signs with apostrophes in the middle of a place name.

Oops, Geoff's ATM card has stopped working. Good job James and I can lend him cash.... Later this evening he works a deal with the Lodge to get cash off his credit card. This helps the lodge a problem as they tend to build up uncomfortably large accumulations of cash as they are located a long way from a bank and I havent seen many armoured trucks on these dirt roads. They pay all their suppliers in cash to alleviate the problem.

Nicely architected lodge,
not quite as nicely equipped as last night's - no AC and, worse, no electric kettle for my cup of 'bucks in the morning. The site is set around some large rocks,


covered in petroglyphs,


an historic campsite no doubt.

Winner dinner here at Twyfelfontein Country Lodge.


The place is packed (we got a lucky cancelation) with dour faced unfit looking germans (>95%). Do not stand between or block their access to the buffet. Mid dinner the staff puts on an impromptu song fest - really good, zero corn factor. Loved the white hatted chef behind the buffet table getting it on. See the video.






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Location:Twyfelontein, Damaraland, Namibia

Etosha options

Hoards of people visit Etosha NP every day. The lodges are booked a year in advance but that is not the only form of accomodation. There are a large variety of camping options. Each of the two main camp/lodge sites are similar in that they are fenced compunds within an outer fence that keeps the animals in. No outer fence and the animals. would revert to their usual migratory routes and out of sight. Within the compound there is a lodge with rooms, a restaurant, snack shop, tourist shop, swimming pool and camp site for tents. Outside the compound but inside the outer fence one can not get out of one's vehicle. A big fine for this as it is obviously in the visitors interest not to be on the menu them selves.


As a result specialized viewing vehicles have been developed. Some with raised viewing platforms but, another rule, there must always be a roof of sorts above the visitors head. If human heads stick above the vehicle silloette then the animals become aware of the voyeurs.

















happy trails





Apparently you sleep on this thing in little coffins



5cars - must be something good.



camp waterhole



Geoff at the ready


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no wifi now for two more days

now to dig into the email...


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Location:Tuni Rd,Outjo,Namibia

Watering holes, human v amimal

after observing the various watering holes for a few days, particularly the one here next to camp, it becomes clear that the various species maintain a strict hierarchical order in regards to when one gets to drink. this is definitely not first come first served kind of service but one more closely aligned with who is likely to eat whom.
in the heat of the day there is a slow ballet as each species constantly reorders the queue as the new players show up and the replenished depart back onto the velt. its a slow ballet as no one moves fast, unless there is a short fearful panic when the order breaks down. its just too hot to move fast (40c). this slow pace extends to the local humans but only becomes obvious when you introduce foreign humans into the experiment. the foreign humans move at a frantic, honey badger like pace, particularly around "their" watering hole, the buffet line whereas the locals move with conservative grace. first come first served definitely is the desired order of the day and perceived violators are rebuked with dispatch.
the full-house population here (reserved one year ahead unless you give the booking agent a box of chocolates) at the lodge is 65% german, 25% french and 10% waifs and strays. the german style of interaction with the local staff is a study in contrasts. you couldn't make this stuff up. tutonic tempers rise very quickly when an interaction doesn't proceed as expected or desired. voices rise and the likelihood of a good outcome diminishes. we want our room, it is not ready, we expected it to be ready, it is not ready, we want our room now, we do not give the keys out until 3pm i am sorry. contrast with geoff who gets the room key immediately upon request at 1:30pm after a study in nonconfrontation even though the room might not be completely done yet.

at the "to order" breakfast buffet line the chef asks me what i'd like. i point at the partially cooked omellete already under way. the previously assigned owner, a german lady of not insignificant size, perceives this as my attempt to jump the queue and steal her eggs (the chicken variety). She shouts at me, she shouts at the chef. The chef and i return silent amused stares as the chef starts my omellette and he serves her her previously allocated ensemble.




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no wifi fror 4 days

70 pieces email fo read


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Location:Tuni Rd,Outjo,Namibia