Bhutan day 12

Last night's hotel, Finn's favorite, seemed to be trying too hard to be something and lost the Bhutanese charm in the process. Comfortable room but the main building staff wasn't the friendly. Architecturally the building was a fine example of misused space. The hotel location, above the Paro airport, did allow closer examination of just how steep the climb out is


Notice the snow that fell last night.
Then started the amazing drive south. In a word terrifying. But before the really bad stretch we happened upon the small town of Chukna where the chief Abbott (of all Bhutan!) was doing a blessing. Huge crowds lining up for their blessing.


Even here, in town, the roads weren't up to much


It's interesting how everyone refers to the road closures that happen on and off during the day as "road widening" when really what is happening is landslide repairs. Take a look at this view and count the slides. We are looking back on the road we just came across. This 15km/hr dirt road stretch lasted maybe 30km.


Anyway we survived - hurrying lunch as we knew the 200 Taiwanese pilgrims who had taken all the hotel rooms in Phuentsholing were right behind us. We werent even able to sit down at the small lunch place as they attempting to set up the 40 seats to serve 200. The thought of 100,000 tourists/yr is comical. There is no way the infrastructure could support that many people. Eventually we dropped out of the clouds and could see Phuentsholing below.



For a local hotel Drukies isn't too bad. After checking in Tsettim researched taxi options to NJP. We got that settled and then visited the crazy crocodile/ghariel zoo where two huge crocs were engaged in a strange coupling ceremony




The evening was cheered up by going out to an Indian restaurant with Tsettim and Mr.Raam and eating a delicious meal (and 8% beer)


- from my iPad

Location:Drukies Hotel, Phuentsholing

Bhutan day 11

Got to bed late as Finn dropped by the room for a chat after dinner.
Excellent breakfast at our home stay, rice porridge with Ginger and peppers.

Drove from Thimpu towards Paro and stopped at Tamchhog Llakhang to see
an example of an "iron bridge".


A reconstruction from 2005 and using original iron links that Thangtong Gyalpo, the builder of 108 iron bridges, had fab'd.



Wont get me on this thing - that a fast moving river you can see under Tshittim's feet. You can see the "iron" links on the right of the image running the length of the bridge. There are 7 strands.

After getting to Paro we headed first National Museum in the Ta Dzong watchtower above the Paro Dzong. Interesting artifacts but clumsily laid out. Couldn't get a pattern of what was going on. Needs new curator ideas. No cameras allowed, or cell phones. Generally a disappointing event and we really should have headed to Taktsang early while the sun was shining.

On then to Taktsang or Tiger's Nest Monastery.


Surely the iconic image of Bhutan. After yesterday's 5 hour hike through mud another 5 hour jaunt up the side of a cliff was less than appealing. Nevertheless it had to be done. Took us 1:30 to get up to the top but didn't feel like entering another temple so bailed at the point of the ultimate photo


The weather turned and there was lots of dramatic rain on the horizon that we could see from the top


Pleasant enough walk through thevspanish moss laden trees


particularly as 90% of the tourists do this hike first thing. So when we got up there it was relatively deserted. Aborted the plan to go buy prayer flags in Paro and instead checked into our current location.

- from my iPad

Location:Tashi Namgay Resort, Paro

Bhutan day 10

Visited the Wangi Dzong.


Currently undergoing a $5MM renovation funded by the Indian government. Actual renovation has yet to start on the building but the onsite wood shop


is making huge progress towards reconstructing all the window frames, door jams, etc. Regardless the place has a wonderful, albeit falling down charm


inspired some significant subsidence on the river side. The place is run down to the extent that even the prayer wheels arebfalling apart revealing the inner prayer scrolls.


Next up a visit the the Dive Madmans temple.


Lovely walk through the actively busy rice paddies to get there.


Temple itself was disappointing, less pornographic that previous billing.

Then we drove from Wangiphodrang to Dochu La with our packed lunches on board. We ran into Kriztina eating lunch and she modified her itinerary to join us on the hike to Lungchu Seka Monastery. Estimated to take 5 hours climbing up through the rodhedendron forest to the temple. We ate our packed lunch beside the 108 stupas and witnessed an awesome rainbow


before starting off, now with two guides. On the way up we came across a yak herd.


But the biggest surprise was when got to the temple there was a special ceremony going on. We crept in and against all rules I just couldn't help take a couple of snaps.


In retrospect a video would have been great in order to record e amazing sounds.

Descent from the temple was hard.


We had to make our own trail.

Great dinner at our home stay. Met Pat and Tom and Finso came over and came back to our room for extended itinerary discussion I.e. Couldn't get a hotel room in Phuentsholing so we are going "local" - can't wait. Hotels all screwed up by the 300 person Taiwanese trip we encountered first at Yu Gharling in Jakar.


- from my iPad

Location:Thimpu, Bhutan

Bhutan day 9

So most everyone thinks the festival is over but today, Monday, is the unrolling of 'the scroll'. Headed back up to the Dzong and arrived just in time to see the scroll rise -truly an amazing sight


Following this we were awed to watch a complete ceremony,


With the best of the best dancers


Meanwile it is pouring rain and these guys are soaked


Great drum section


With every instrument blasting away including conch shells ( I'm limited on how many photos I post). Even exiting the Dzong we have music


Then it's 9:30am and it's time for 160km drive back to Wangi -a two pass day. At Pele La


we has a yak encounter


As well as an amazing show of Spanish moss


I couldn't photograph the dying horse on the roadside, eyeless after being attacked wild dogs (per Mr Raam) a sad sad sight


- from my iPad

Location:Dragon's Nest Resort, Wangiphodrang

Bhutan day 8

Hotel still holds the titles awarded yesterday. Left hotel at 8:30am following breakfast as scheduled but Mr Raam was AWOL. He finally showed at 9:15 or so and then it was back up to the Dzong for another day of festival watching. But this day was different in that there were lots of tourists, ugly tourists at that! Big cameras walking in the middle of the ceremony with total disregard for the fact that this is a holy ceremony for the Bhutanese. I'm embarrassed for them. I was talking to a local complaint about my fellow tourists and commented that it all the guides responsibility to prepare the tourists. Big tips probably work for the big camera people.

The morning programme consisted of the 8 reincarnations of Guru Rimpoche


After their dance the crowd walked by to be blessed, all very deferential to these masked monks. Lots of character dancing along the way, with the underworld (jesters) intertwined


Lunch back at the hotel and as it was raining we aborted the trip to the Burning Lake and returned to the festival for the afternoon programme.





Bailed out at 4pm and retreated to the hotel - hard not too as it is soooooo comfortable. Still raining.


- from my iPad

Location:Hotel Yugharling, Jakar, Bumthang

Bhutan day 7

Breakfast nothing to write home about, in fact that goes for the whole hotel. Bfast merit points for crepes and curd.
8:30am start to drive from Trongsa to Bumthang. Amazingly scenic climb up to Yotong La. Upon descent passed through Gaytsa where Mr Raam's parents live (road workers) then stopped at Sangay Arts and Crafts in Chumney. Then on to Jakar and checkin to Yu Gharling. Current winner of hotel and food prizes (based on lunch). After lunch up to Dzong to watch the Bumthang Teschu (festival)


Off duty at 4:30pm and relax at this great wifi capable hotel.

- from my iPad

Location:Yu Gharling, Jakar

Photos

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