Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Bhutan day 10

Visited the Wangi Dzong.


Currently undergoing a $5MM renovation funded by the Indian government. Actual renovation has yet to start on the building but the onsite wood shop


is making huge progress towards reconstructing all the window frames, door jams, etc. Regardless the place has a wonderful, albeit falling down charm


inspired some significant subsidence on the river side. The place is run down to the extent that even the prayer wheels arebfalling apart revealing the inner prayer scrolls.


Next up a visit the the Dive Madmans temple.


Lovely walk through the actively busy rice paddies to get there.


Temple itself was disappointing, less pornographic that previous billing.

Then we drove from Wangiphodrang to Dochu La with our packed lunches on board. We ran into Kriztina eating lunch and she modified her itinerary to join us on the hike to Lungchu Seka Monastery. Estimated to take 5 hours climbing up through the rodhedendron forest to the temple. We ate our packed lunch beside the 108 stupas and witnessed an awesome rainbow


before starting off, now with two guides. On the way up we came across a yak herd.


But the biggest surprise was when got to the temple there was a special ceremony going on. We crept in and against all rules I just couldn't help take a couple of snaps.


In retrospect a video would have been great in order to record e amazing sounds.

Descent from the temple was hard.


We had to make our own trail.

Great dinner at our home stay. Met Pat and Tom and Finso came over and came back to our room for extended itinerary discussion I.e. Couldn't get a hotel room in Phuentsholing so we are going "local" - can't wait. Hotels all screwed up by the 300 person Taiwanese trip we encountered first at Yu Gharling in Jakar.


- from my iPad

Location:Thimpu, Bhutan

Monday, October 18, 2010

Bhutan day 9

So most everyone thinks the festival is over but today, Monday, is the unrolling of 'the scroll'. Headed back up to the Dzong and arrived just in time to see the scroll rise -truly an amazing sight


Following this we were awed to watch a complete ceremony,


With the best of the best dancers


Meanwile it is pouring rain and these guys are soaked


Great drum section


With every instrument blasting away including conch shells ( I'm limited on how many photos I post). Even exiting the Dzong we have music


Then it's 9:30am and it's time for 160km drive back to Wangi -a two pass day. At Pele La


we has a yak encounter


As well as an amazing show of Spanish moss


I couldn't photograph the dying horse on the roadside, eyeless after being attacked wild dogs (per Mr Raam) a sad sad sight


- from my iPad

Location:Dragon's Nest Resort, Wangiphodrang

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Bhutan day 8

Hotel still holds the titles awarded yesterday. Left hotel at 8:30am following breakfast as scheduled but Mr Raam was AWOL. He finally showed at 9:15 or so and then it was back up to the Dzong for another day of festival watching. But this day was different in that there were lots of tourists, ugly tourists at that! Big cameras walking in the middle of the ceremony with total disregard for the fact that this is a holy ceremony for the Bhutanese. I'm embarrassed for them. I was talking to a local complaint about my fellow tourists and commented that it all the guides responsibility to prepare the tourists. Big tips probably work for the big camera people.

The morning programme consisted of the 8 reincarnations of Guru Rimpoche


After their dance the crowd walked by to be blessed, all very deferential to these masked monks. Lots of character dancing along the way, with the underworld (jesters) intertwined


Lunch back at the hotel and as it was raining we aborted the trip to the Burning Lake and returned to the festival for the afternoon programme.





Bailed out at 4pm and retreated to the hotel - hard not too as it is soooooo comfortable. Still raining.


- from my iPad

Location:Hotel Yugharling, Jakar, Bumthang

Saturday, October 16, 2010

Bhutan day 7

Breakfast nothing to write home about, in fact that goes for the whole hotel. Bfast merit points for crepes and curd.
8:30am start to drive from Trongsa to Bumthang. Amazingly scenic climb up to Yotong La. Upon descent passed through Gaytsa where Mr Raam's parents live (road workers) then stopped at Sangay Arts and Crafts in Chumney. Then on to Jakar and checkin to Yu Gharling. Current winner of hotel and food prizes (based on lunch). After lunch up to Dzong to watch the Bumthang Teschu (festival)


Off duty at 4:30pm and relax at this great wifi capable hotel.

- from my iPad

Location:Yu Gharling, Jakar

Photos

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2092729&id=1316635520&l=fca5299364

Friday, October 15, 2010

Bhutan day 6

Departed hotel and headed up to the main road and then up to the Pele La pass where we happened upon a herd of yak. Check that off the list.
Down the other side and a short stop at Chendebji chorten before going on another 0.5km for lunch at Hotel Chandbjee/Ugreyan Dorji Tabdea. Usual fair, adequately prepared.
Headed on to Trongsa, stopped at a lookout spot for Trongsa Dzong. Visited the Dzong - getting dzonged out - really tired after last night's shenanigans, not a lot of patience. Climbed up to the lookout tower/museum, Taa Dzong. Cameras to be checked at door.
Headed up to hotel. Changed rooms (bad smell) and ended up with great room with balcony overlooking Dzong.

- from my iPad

Location:Puenzhi Guest House, Trongsa

Thursday, October 14, 2010

Bhutan day 5

Up at 6:30am in the interests of a 7am start, hoping to hit the road construction window. Took an early pic of the hotel


Drove down valley past the Divine Madman's place then past the Wangdi Phodrang
fortress 7:32am. Then a steady climb up the amazingly dangerous road along the Dang Chu river valley. Huge drops, narrow road, no shoulder, one lane with two way traffic. Short wait at the road block


Stopped at Pele La pass. Descended to Phobjikha valley and Gantey
Goemba


where we happened upon celebrations


to commemorate the underground electricity service (paid for by the Austrian) government.
Nice people pics


Checked into hotel, lunched and then out to the black neck crane observation center. The the thankfully shortened hike (immenent darkness and rain) but did reach the observation platform on the far side of the valley and saw the solitary crane that had missed last year's migration bus.



The new home-stay farm house near the hotel was being consecrated and Tsetim wangled us an invite. Awesome





Drank to excess with Jane and Michael.
Nice room


- from my iPad

Location:Hotel Dewachen, Phobjikha