Sunday, October 17, 2010

Bhutan day 8

Hotel still holds the titles awarded yesterday. Left hotel at 8:30am following breakfast as scheduled but Mr Raam was AWOL. He finally showed at 9:15 or so and then it was back up to the Dzong for another day of festival watching. But this day was different in that there were lots of tourists, ugly tourists at that! Big cameras walking in the middle of the ceremony with total disregard for the fact that this is a holy ceremony for the Bhutanese. I'm embarrassed for them. I was talking to a local complaint about my fellow tourists and commented that it all the guides responsibility to prepare the tourists. Big tips probably work for the big camera people.

The morning programme consisted of the 8 reincarnations of Guru Rimpoche


After their dance the crowd walked by to be blessed, all very deferential to these masked monks. Lots of character dancing along the way, with the underworld (jesters) intertwined


Lunch back at the hotel and as it was raining we aborted the trip to the Burning Lake and returned to the festival for the afternoon programme.





Bailed out at 4pm and retreated to the hotel - hard not too as it is soooooo comfortable. Still raining.


- from my iPad

Location:Hotel Yugharling, Jakar, Bumthang

Saturday, October 16, 2010

Bhutan day 7

Breakfast nothing to write home about, in fact that goes for the whole hotel. Bfast merit points for crepes and curd.
8:30am start to drive from Trongsa to Bumthang. Amazingly scenic climb up to Yotong La. Upon descent passed through Gaytsa where Mr Raam's parents live (road workers) then stopped at Sangay Arts and Crafts in Chumney. Then on to Jakar and checkin to Yu Gharling. Current winner of hotel and food prizes (based on lunch). After lunch up to Dzong to watch the Bumthang Teschu (festival)


Off duty at 4:30pm and relax at this great wifi capable hotel.

- from my iPad

Location:Yu Gharling, Jakar

Photos

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2092729&id=1316635520&l=fca5299364

Friday, October 15, 2010

Bhutan day 6

Departed hotel and headed up to the main road and then up to the Pele La pass where we happened upon a herd of yak. Check that off the list.
Down the other side and a short stop at Chendebji chorten before going on another 0.5km for lunch at Hotel Chandbjee/Ugreyan Dorji Tabdea. Usual fair, adequately prepared.
Headed on to Trongsa, stopped at a lookout spot for Trongsa Dzong. Visited the Dzong - getting dzonged out - really tired after last night's shenanigans, not a lot of patience. Climbed up to the lookout tower/museum, Taa Dzong. Cameras to be checked at door.
Headed up to hotel. Changed rooms (bad smell) and ended up with great room with balcony overlooking Dzong.

- from my iPad

Location:Puenzhi Guest House, Trongsa

Thursday, October 14, 2010

Bhutan day 5

Up at 6:30am in the interests of a 7am start, hoping to hit the road construction window. Took an early pic of the hotel


Drove down valley past the Divine Madman's place then past the Wangdi Phodrang
fortress 7:32am. Then a steady climb up the amazingly dangerous road along the Dang Chu river valley. Huge drops, narrow road, no shoulder, one lane with two way traffic. Short wait at the road block


Stopped at Pele La pass. Descended to Phobjikha valley and Gantey
Goemba


where we happened upon celebrations


to commemorate the underground electricity service (paid for by the Austrian) government.
Nice people pics


Checked into hotel, lunched and then out to the black neck crane observation center. The the thankfully shortened hike (immenent darkness and rain) but did reach the observation platform on the far side of the valley and saw the solitary crane that had missed last year's migration bus.



The new home-stay farm house near the hotel was being consecrated and Tsetim wangled us an invite. Awesome





Drank to excess with Jane and Michael.
Nice room


- from my iPad

Location:Hotel Dewachen, Phobjikha

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Bhutan day 4

Breakfasted at home stay complete with political and racial commentary. (and phallic insignia)


First visit on a ridge SE above Thimpu, 12c Changangkha ,


where we were blessed by the cellphone monk. Lots of people bringing offerings, like chips...
Then off to Mr. Ram's neighborhood, Simtokha


Dzong.
I really liked the architectural layout of this place with monks in an outer cloistered square surrounding the temple.







Stopped on the road out of town stepped in a pile of ox shit (good luck) but got the shot across the valley


Then off to the Dachu La pass. Crazy number of tourists - not used to this. Hung around the 108 stupas


gazing at the amazing Himalayas






Then on down the valley to the Punakha Dzong at the confluence of the Phochu and Mochu rivers


Nice cantilevered bridge
To enter




Then back in the car and 5km upstream on the banks of the Phochu as far as the road widening road block and then a vigorous hike up to the 5th queen's recently dedicated temple, Ksamsum Yuelley Namgyel chorten.



Where we met an energetic nun of 89 years who smiled all the time except when I took the photo


Descending we got lots of great rice paddy views like



The sun had set and we arrived at the local hotel in the dark. Lots of tourists. Buffet dinner very tasty. No wi-fi but a hardwired connection was enough to send off mail to Sree suggesting canceling Hampi and doing Allora caves instead

I wiped out a bunch of photos with Apple' fabulous Photos app but pulled the card as soon as i saw what was happening and am hoping to restore the deleted files as nothing more has been overwritten and I put the write-only switch on and swapped in a new card. Need some SDHC file recovery s/w

- from my iPad

Location:Meri Puensum resort, Punakha

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Bhutan day 3

Breakfast at 7:30am of Bhutanese porridge, I.e. excellent rice congee with garlic and ginger.

Headed off down the Haa valley, stopping briefly at the "white temple" to take pic I forgot last night


Then on down the most scenic valley with ever increasing depth. Stopped briefly when Tsetim noticed a traditional farmhouse without a corrugated iron roof.


Off again until a few Km later we noticed a water powered high speed prayer wheel



Then we noticed the adjacent barn


housed a beautiful water powered rice mill


Complete with spare upper millstone that revealed all


A little further along we stopped to chat to a group men constructing and erecting prayer flags to commemorate a recent death in the valley


Then on to Confluence where two rivers meet and four highways


Then on into Thimpu, the capital, and Bhutanese lunch at the Bhutan Kitchen before visiting the Folk Heritage museum. A traditional farmhouse fully decked out with implements farm tools religious paraphernalia. Nicely done but no photos allowed - go figure.
Then off to the National Institute, Zorig Chusum, School of 13 Arts and Crafts where we saw










Then the boring National Institute of Traditional Medicine

Takin preserve


BBS tower Sangaygang great view of Thimpu


And Good views of Trashichhoe


Dzong
hike to Wangditse Goenba



Lovely monk there


After scrambling down to the road and meeting Mr. Ram we headed back into town to visit the Nation Memorial where there was a special service ongoing. We joined in walking around the chorten and taking the sights





and a bonus Art Wolfe homage shot of monks post prayer


A long day but we then headed back east again and found our home stay ,Pamtsho Lodge, a lovely family and excellent dinner and accommodation.

- from my iPad

Location:Pamtsho Lodge, Thimpu