Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Day 3 rock paintings and relief sculptures

Slow start. Long walk as sun comes up.


Petit dejeuner, then rolling but at a slower pace.



Sully seems to be the navigator.


The route seems new to Hassan.
Much more impressive paintings.






Long lunch 10:30 stop, lunch prep till noon, eat (delicious cauliflower-egg combo) then hang around watching Abdullah shave Akmed's head.
Finally take off at 2:30pm
The pace is glacial in this desert.






The great sand dune versus vehicle contest.


Dunes win.
Sully drives better than Akmed!
Sully takes Akmed for private dune driving 101 (we think)

Dinner, delicious soup and veg stew.
Stunningly banal dinner conversation.
Paul is unaware that he has any difficulty walking. We have now stepped into the world of fantasy.
Bacardi is my friend.



Only 19 miles today


- from my iPad

Location:Tadrart

Monday, November 29, 2010

Day 2 Finally the desert

The 10pm plane finally left at 4:30am. Great... but it was going to Tamransett first and Djanet second getting us on the ground at dawn, 6am. I have to say the traveling Algerian takes a load of abuse regarding transportation punctuality but throughout they remain calm and generally good humoured, especially to us. Locals are extremely welcoming and kind as we struggle to find the right communication band, French, English, signs whatever.
Mr. Mani, a giant Tuareg, picks up from the airport in full purple regalia. He's huge and again, no English, but super friendly. He drives us 30km to where we were meant to have slept last night. We had indicated we didn't want to sleep but get driving, so with 7 bed hours in the last 64 we quickly grabbed petit dejeuner. Then a short drive to Mr Mani's house and a repacking of vehicles


as the cook, Abdullah, and his driver, Sully, show up in another beat-up diesel Land Cruiser.
Mr. Mani indicates he is staying in Djanet so Cherry and i join Abdullah, another extremely tall Tuareg in very camp gear and Sully, heading off, south east from Djanet to find our travel companions who had spent the night near a nomadic Tuareg settlement (generous description, just one family two tents).
On our way Sully drives up to a pile of rocks and tells to scramble over them. What's with guy, does he think we need a bathroom break. Then we see the incredible petraglyphs, kinda over shadow the one at Toroweap last week.


Giraffes and cattle - excellent renderings.
We eventually find the Tuareg camp,


some 50 miles out across the sand. Quite few serious 4wd sections.
What a shocker. Paul and Howard are quite infirm and in their late 70's. Howard is deaf, probably all his life perhaps a stroke, resulting in a chronic speech impediment and an air of distinctly not following proceedings. Paul on the other hand is blind in one eye and can't walk well at all.
I'm not making this up.
Somehow this meeting combined with chronic lack of sleep leaves me quite depressed. What was I thinking.....
We meet Hassan, our excellent English speaking guide, a delight and soon Akmed returns with the second vehicle with extra diesel tanks on board.
Serious desert rigs.
Much vehicle repacking and then it's further SE to El Biredj to find the famous rock paintings of the Tissili D'jassir National Park. In a word, under whelming in terms of expanse but the detail is excellent.


This is lunch so Abdullah gets cracking prepping lunch while Cherry and I set off for a hill while Paul and Howard accidentally nap.
Very nice lunch but if eating salad in Algeria is a bad idea then we are screwed. Good salad though.
Back in the two vehicle convoy through absolutely stunning scenery until the wagons circle and tonight's campsite is officially declaring after much inter-vehicle shouting in Tuaregese.
The scenery is so stunning


that I have now remembered what I was thinking.


Cherry and I take a bunch of sunset photos and build our camps. Jeepers it's dark already.
No moon so the star will be beyond spectacular. iPad astronomy kit is handy.
From my rocky perch I see dinner is being prepped while I sit up on my rocky high point drinking a stiff Bacardi, no coke, and do the one finger polka on the iPad.



We camp in El Biredj

125miles today

- from my iPad

Location:Day 2 El Biredj

Getting to Djanet 11/29

So last night's 10pm flight to Djanet has still not arrived but the board says we depart at 1:45am.

We cracked the code to be able to get wifi access (1hr = 420 dinars). This was very useful to keep Kirsten updated on the latest wrinkle in our travel plans. We get to the airport tonight and Faysal has etickets for Cherry and someone called Paul Eowarza. Faysal thinks that one of the two travelers that flew last night took my eticket by accident. Faysal buys me a one way ticket to Djanet, gives me Paul's eticket and tells me to swap with Paul when we get Djanet for the return flight.
It was only after Faysal left that we theorized that no way could someone check in and get past passport check and security with a boarding pass that didn't match their passport.

Current theory: when the 3rd Journeys passenger bailed on the trip last week the wrong ticket got canceled i.e mine.

Hark, I hear a plane arriving.

Exciting times.


- from my iPad

Location:Algiers airport 1am

Sunday, November 28, 2010

Algiers 11/28

Got to bed at 3am. Woke to rain. Changed money in hotel and bought umbrellas.


Picked up by Faysal (last night's driver) along with Side, the guide at 12:30pm.
Walked down through casbah,





after waiting for no-show police escort.
Visited very very nice restored Turkish palace


which now houses an art collection. After casbah headed to a main boulevard and Lonely Planets top restaurant for lunch. Very fresh dorado and pomme vapor. Excellent. Free wifi too.
After lunch more driving around till we got to the two museums at the top of a hill. Entered one even though it was after closing time. Lots of roman artifacts. Concluded that Sedi's guiding and language skills aren't up to snuff. Sure it's a chicken...
Lots of traffic (rush hour) but headed up to recently restored basilica.





Following this maps out on to the car trunk and micro planning of the post desert Constantine trip. Faysal has already invited Sedi to be our guide - whoa. Sent emergency message to Kirsten to make sure she knows we don't wish to change previously made plans with Aissa. Hope she can that out before we get back.
Hand off of two bottles of wine and a wad of cash for Mr. Mani our Tuareg driver who will meet us in Djanet.
Coffee at a neighborhood restaurant - iPad slide show for guide and driver - then dropped Sedi before heading up to the Monument of the Martyrs. Impressive.





Then it's to the airport and the next problem.
Faysal has Cherry's eticket but the other ticket is for Paul Eowarska, not me. Faysal thinks this is the guy who flew last night. How would he have got through security? No, this the ticket of the Journey's traveller who dropped at the last minute. Faysal buys a one-way ticket for me and expects that I will swap tickets with mystery Paul when I get to Djanet. Fat chance. Unfortunately Cherry and I worked this out after we had sent Faysal home. Nice problem waiting for Mr.Mani.

Characters:
Faysal, possible Cheche employee and Algiers driver. Nice guy.
Sedi, Algiers guide. Nice guy but English not so good. Contested to Cheche.
Aissa: number 1 guy at Cheche Tours, in Wargla, Algeria.
Kirsten: our rep at Journeys Travel in the US
Mr. Mani, our driver in Djanet - who likes his wine.


- from my iPad

Location:Algiers

Friday, November 26, 2010

Heading to Algeria 11/26

Left on Lufthansa, changing Dulles (wine bar) for 8hr flight to Frankfurt. Then things went horribly wrong. There was a gate change for the departing Algiers flight which we didn't pick up on. Result: a very long day at Franfurt airport and an unexpected Saturday night at Hotel Albert 1e.


- from my iPad

Location:SFO to ALG

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

India and Bhutan photos sorted

Photos sorted and somewhat edited:
http://artwork.davies.com/apd/IndiaBhutan/index.html


- from my iPad

Location:Palo Alto