7:45am departure from Hampi for the 7 hr drive back. Stopped outside Kurtool to visit Bhaskar's parents house. Photos were taken. Then off to pick up wife, son and a sack of rice. Hair raising near collision with truck - bravo Bhaskar.
Back at Sree and Anitha's by 3:30pm.
Big delicious dinner and soon off to the airport and into the hands of Singapore Airlines. Could be worse.
- from my iPad
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
India day 17
Rain shower at 7am.
Took off with original guide, Seena, at 8am
Toured Sacred Center
Toured Royal Center
The Mango Tree restaurant for lunch. Excellent.
Toured Royal Center 2
Back at hotel at 3pm
7:30pm Bhaskar took us back to the Mango Tree for dinner. Excellent
- from my iPad
Took off with original guide, Seena, at 8am
Toured Sacred Center
Toured Royal Center
The Mango Tree restaurant for lunch. Excellent.
Toured Royal Center 2
Back at hotel at 3pm
7:30pm Bhaskar took us back to the Mango Tree for dinner. Excellent
- from my iPad
Location:Hampi.
India day 16
Good nights sleep. Checked out of Corp housing.
Another fabulous breakfast at Sree and Anithas. White wheat cereal paste - delicious. Along with shredded wheat/rice (special for Devali).
Bhaskar and very you wife and very young son arrive.
We finally get rolling at 9:05am. Fabulous highway - two lane each way with median. The occasional truck on the wrong side of the median but nothing too scary - as far as Gooty but first we drop wife and son at Kurnool. At Gooty we head west on another national highway but this one is nothing like the first one.
Can Bhuskar read? Not well sign posted but even I could follow the way. Bhuskar very cautious and would get a verbal check at every intersection.
7 hours and we pulled into the hotel - just kind of appeared. Very poorly signed.
Basic accommodation but satisfactory. Dinner, not so much.
Decided to not visit sights this evening as it would 400Rps for an hour. Instead we negotiate for an all day guide tomorrow. Very confusing. Unethical guide competition. Who cares.
Functioning A/C
- from my iPad
Another fabulous breakfast at Sree and Anithas. White wheat cereal paste - delicious. Along with shredded wheat/rice (special for Devali).
Bhaskar and very you wife and very young son arrive.
We finally get rolling at 9:05am. Fabulous highway - two lane each way with median. The occasional truck on the wrong side of the median but nothing too scary - as far as Gooty but first we drop wife and son at Kurnool. At Gooty we head west on another national highway but this one is nothing like the first one.
Can Bhuskar read? Not well sign posted but even I could follow the way. Bhuskar very cautious and would get a verbal check at every intersection.
7 hours and we pulled into the hotel - just kind of appeared. Very poorly signed.
Basic accommodation but satisfactory. Dinner, not so much.
Decided to not visit sights this evening as it would 400Rps for an hour. Instead we negotiate for an all day guide tomorrow. Very confusing. Unethical guide competition. Who cares.
Functioning A/C
- from my iPad
Location:KTDC Hampi, Karnataka
Saturday, October 23, 2010
India day 14
Like i said, nothing exotic
Train got later and later so that by dawn
we were 2 hours late. As we would roll slowly
through stations vendors would execute daring running and jumping maneuvers to get on board with their produce
The 1st class AC is what we remember from 1982 but with no AC. Generally speaking the train is disgusting
But you keep your spot clean and your feet off the floor. Got to Howrah very late. Our two compartment fellows were upset - us not so much as the time in Kulkatta would be shortened. Negotiated a deal with a Mr Bijoy Saha, who we found hanging near the tourism booth, to drive us around Kulkatta all day and deliver us to the airport for the flight to Hyderabad. But first we blew $1 on breakfast for both of us
Crazy crazy traffic around the Howrah bridge and Mr Saha Ambassador
was not in tip top mechanical condition. Nevertheless we drove by the Writers Building, The High Court, St Paul's Cathedral and we visited the Indian Museum (immense, dark and boring) the Victoria museum (a less immense and brighter but still boring experience) before having a 90 minute credit card lunch
At every red light the same old indigents were hanging on the window. What to do?
After lunch Netaji Bhavan - home of revolutionary anti-Brit Chandra Bose. Most interesting stop of the day. Then, ridiculously early, we said, Ok let's head to the airport. Not a bad idea as it was a 90+ minutes wild ride through the worst and noisiest Kulkatta traffic. After checkin we treated ourselves to the exec lounge. And here we sit....
Tonight Buskar will meet us at HYD and whisks us to Sree and Anitha's for dinner.
- from my iPad
Train got later and later so that by dawn
we were 2 hours late. As we would roll slowly
through stations vendors would execute daring running and jumping maneuvers to get on board with their produce
The 1st class AC is what we remember from 1982 but with no AC. Generally speaking the train is disgusting
But you keep your spot clean and your feet off the floor. Got to Howrah very late. Our two compartment fellows were upset - us not so much as the time in Kulkatta would be shortened. Negotiated a deal with a Mr Bijoy Saha, who we found hanging near the tourism booth, to drive us around Kulkatta all day and deliver us to the airport for the flight to Hyderabad. But first we blew $1 on breakfast for both of us
Crazy crazy traffic around the Howrah bridge and Mr Saha Ambassador
was not in tip top mechanical condition. Nevertheless we drove by the Writers Building, The High Court, St Paul's Cathedral and we visited the Indian Museum (immense, dark and boring) the Victoria museum (a less immense and brighter but still boring experience) before having a 90 minute credit card lunch
At every red light the same old indigents were hanging on the window. What to do?
After lunch Netaji Bhavan - home of revolutionary anti-Brit Chandra Bose. Most interesting stop of the day. Then, ridiculously early, we said, Ok let's head to the airport. Not a bad idea as it was a 90+ minutes wild ride through the worst and noisiest Kulkatta traffic. After checkin we treated ourselves to the exec lounge. And here we sit....
Tonight Buskar will meet us at HYD and whisks us to Sree and Anitha's for dinner.
- from my iPad
Location:Kolcutta airport departure lounge.
Bhutan day 13
Woke up at Drukies and negotiated an Indian breakfast of alu and gobi parathas - with hot water to drink. Tsettim and Mr Raam showed and took us to the Bank of Bhutan where Tsettim's friend expedited some currency exchange for us. Then
we visited Tsettim's other friend at Bhutan emigration. Meanwhile our taxi dude Jaggju showed up with his shaky Tata and we fronted $1000 of the committed $2500 Rupees fare (so that he had enough money to fill the tank). Next our 3 staff shepherded us to Indian immigration in New Jagaon, the border town corresponding to Phuentsholing. Then we said goodbye to our Bhutanese staff and threw ourselves on the mercy of Jaggju. Not sure how we would have managed this transition without help from T&R.
It was a long journey, 5 hours, over horrendous roads, with a weird whining sound emitting from the Tata's transmission. Most of the journey was through tea plantations
With occasional wild life
Finally after asking directions half a dozen times we found New Jalpaiguri (NJP) train station. Had a great lunch for 40 cents and generally killed about 6 hours waiting
for this train I am on now
Our train finally left at around 9:45pm, 30 minutes late.
1st class AC is comfortable but not exotic.
- from my iPad
we visited Tsettim's other friend at Bhutan emigration. Meanwhile our taxi dude Jaggju showed up with his shaky Tata and we fronted $1000 of the committed $2500 Rupees fare (so that he had enough money to fill the tank). Next our 3 staff shepherded us to Indian immigration in New Jagaon, the border town corresponding to Phuentsholing. Then we said goodbye to our Bhutanese staff and threw ourselves on the mercy of Jaggju. Not sure how we would have managed this transition without help from T&R.
It was a long journey, 5 hours, over horrendous roads, with a weird whining sound emitting from the Tata's transmission. Most of the journey was through tea plantations
With occasional wild life
Finally after asking directions half a dozen times we found New Jalpaiguri (NJP) train station. Had a great lunch for 40 cents and generally killed about 6 hours waiting
for this train I am on now
Our train finally left at around 9:45pm, 30 minutes late.
1st class AC is comfortable but not exotic.
- from my iPad
Location:Paharia Express, NJP to Kolkutta
Bhutan day 12
Last night's hotel, Finn's favorite, seemed to be trying too hard to be something and lost the Bhutanese charm in the process. Comfortable room but the main building staff wasn't the friendly. Architecturally the building was a fine example of misused space. The hotel location, above the Paro airport, did allow closer examination of just how steep the climb out is
Notice the snow that fell last night.
Then started the amazing drive south. In a word terrifying. But before the really bad stretch we happened upon the small town of Chukna where the chief Abbott (of all Bhutan!) was doing a blessing. Huge crowds lining up for their blessing.
Even here, in town, the roads weren't up to much
It's interesting how everyone refers to the road closures that happen on and off during the day as "road widening" when really what is happening is landslide repairs. Take a look at this view and count the slides. We are looking back on the road we just came across. This 15km/hr dirt road stretch lasted maybe 30km.
Anyway we survived - hurrying lunch as we knew the 200 Taiwanese pilgrims who had taken all the hotel rooms in Phuentsholing were right behind us. We werent even able to sit down at the small lunch place as they attempting to set up the 40 seats to serve 200. The thought of 100,000 tourists/yr is comical. There is no way the infrastructure could support that many people. Eventually we dropped out of the clouds and could see Phuentsholing below.
For a local hotel Drukies isn't too bad. After checking in Tsettim researched taxi options to NJP. We got that settled and then visited the crazy crocodile/ghariel zoo where two huge crocs were engaged in a strange coupling ceremony
The evening was cheered up by going out to an Indian restaurant with Tsettim and Mr.Raam and eating a delicious meal (and 8% beer)
- from my iPad
Notice the snow that fell last night.
Then started the amazing drive south. In a word terrifying. But before the really bad stretch we happened upon the small town of Chukna where the chief Abbott (of all Bhutan!) was doing a blessing. Huge crowds lining up for their blessing.
Even here, in town, the roads weren't up to much
It's interesting how everyone refers to the road closures that happen on and off during the day as "road widening" when really what is happening is landslide repairs. Take a look at this view and count the slides. We are looking back on the road we just came across. This 15km/hr dirt road stretch lasted maybe 30km.
Anyway we survived - hurrying lunch as we knew the 200 Taiwanese pilgrims who had taken all the hotel rooms in Phuentsholing were right behind us. We werent even able to sit down at the small lunch place as they attempting to set up the 40 seats to serve 200. The thought of 100,000 tourists/yr is comical. There is no way the infrastructure could support that many people. Eventually we dropped out of the clouds and could see Phuentsholing below.
For a local hotel Drukies isn't too bad. After checking in Tsettim researched taxi options to NJP. We got that settled and then visited the crazy crocodile/ghariel zoo where two huge crocs were engaged in a strange coupling ceremony
The evening was cheered up by going out to an Indian restaurant with Tsettim and Mr.Raam and eating a delicious meal (and 8% beer)
- from my iPad
Location:Drukies Hotel, Phuentsholing
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
Bhutan day 11
Got to bed late as Finn dropped by the room for a chat after dinner.
Excellent breakfast at our home stay, rice porridge with Ginger and peppers.
Drove from Thimpu towards Paro and stopped at Tamchhog Llakhang to see
an example of an "iron bridge".
A reconstruction from 2005 and using original iron links that Thangtong Gyalpo, the builder of 108 iron bridges, had fab'd.
Wont get me on this thing - that a fast moving river you can see under Tshittim's feet. You can see the "iron" links on the right of the image running the length of the bridge. There are 7 strands.
After getting to Paro we headed first National Museum in the Ta Dzong watchtower above the Paro Dzong. Interesting artifacts but clumsily laid out. Couldn't get a pattern of what was going on. Needs new curator ideas. No cameras allowed, or cell phones. Generally a disappointing event and we really should have headed to Taktsang early while the sun was shining.
On then to Taktsang or Tiger's Nest Monastery.
Surely the iconic image of Bhutan. After yesterday's 5 hour hike through mud another 5 hour jaunt up the side of a cliff was less than appealing. Nevertheless it had to be done. Took us 1:30 to get up to the top but didn't feel like entering another temple so bailed at the point of the ultimate photo
The weather turned and there was lots of dramatic rain on the horizon that we could see from the top
Pleasant enough walk through thevspanish moss laden trees
particularly as 90% of the tourists do this hike first thing. So when we got up there it was relatively deserted. Aborted the plan to go buy prayer flags in Paro and instead checked into our current location.
- from my iPad
Location:Tashi Namgay Resort, Paro
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
Bhutan day 10
Visited the Wangi Dzong.
Currently undergoing a $5MM renovation funded by the Indian government. Actual renovation has yet to start on the building but the onsite wood shop
is making huge progress towards reconstructing all the window frames, door jams, etc. Regardless the place has a wonderful, albeit falling down charm
inspired some significant subsidence on the river side. The place is run down to the extent that even the prayer wheels arebfalling apart revealing the inner prayer scrolls.
Next up a visit the the Dive Madmans temple.
Lovely walk through the actively busy rice paddies to get there.
Temple itself was disappointing, less pornographic that previous billing.
Then we drove from Wangiphodrang to Dochu La with our packed lunches on board. We ran into Kriztina eating lunch and she modified her itinerary to join us on the hike to Lungchu Seka Monastery. Estimated to take 5 hours climbing up through the rodhedendron forest to the temple. We ate our packed lunch beside the 108 stupas and witnessed an awesome rainbow
before starting off, now with two guides. On the way up we came across a yak herd.
But the biggest surprise was when got to the temple there was a special ceremony going on. We crept in and against all rules I just couldn't help take a couple of snaps.
In retrospect a video would have been great in order to record e amazing sounds.
Descent from the temple was hard.
We had to make our own trail.
Great dinner at our home stay. Met Pat and Tom and Finso came over and came back to our room for extended itinerary discussion I.e. Couldn't get a hotel room in Phuentsholing so we are going "local" - can't wait. Hotels all screwed up by the 300 person Taiwanese trip we encountered first at Yu Gharling in Jakar.
- from my iPad
Currently undergoing a $5MM renovation funded by the Indian government. Actual renovation has yet to start on the building but the onsite wood shop
is making huge progress towards reconstructing all the window frames, door jams, etc. Regardless the place has a wonderful, albeit falling down charm
inspired some significant subsidence on the river side. The place is run down to the extent that even the prayer wheels arebfalling apart revealing the inner prayer scrolls.
Next up a visit the the Dive Madmans temple.
Lovely walk through the actively busy rice paddies to get there.
Temple itself was disappointing, less pornographic that previous billing.
Then we drove from Wangiphodrang to Dochu La with our packed lunches on board. We ran into Kriztina eating lunch and she modified her itinerary to join us on the hike to Lungchu Seka Monastery. Estimated to take 5 hours climbing up through the rodhedendron forest to the temple. We ate our packed lunch beside the 108 stupas and witnessed an awesome rainbow
before starting off, now with two guides. On the way up we came across a yak herd.
But the biggest surprise was when got to the temple there was a special ceremony going on. We crept in and against all rules I just couldn't help take a couple of snaps.
In retrospect a video would have been great in order to record e amazing sounds.
Descent from the temple was hard.
We had to make our own trail.
Great dinner at our home stay. Met Pat and Tom and Finso came over and came back to our room for extended itinerary discussion I.e. Couldn't get a hotel room in Phuentsholing so we are going "local" - can't wait. Hotels all screwed up by the 300 person Taiwanese trip we encountered first at Yu Gharling in Jakar.
- from my iPad
Location:Thimpu, Bhutan
Monday, October 18, 2010
Bhutan day 9
So most everyone thinks the festival is over but today, Monday, is the unrolling of 'the scroll'. Headed back up to the Dzong and arrived just in time to see the scroll rise -truly an amazing sight
Following this we were awed to watch a complete ceremony,
With the best of the best dancers
Meanwile it is pouring rain and these guys are soaked
Great drum section
With every instrument blasting away including conch shells ( I'm limited on how many photos I post). Even exiting the Dzong we have music
Then it's 9:30am and it's time for 160km drive back to Wangi -a two pass day. At Pele La
we has a yak encounter
As well as an amazing show of Spanish moss
I couldn't photograph the dying horse on the roadside, eyeless after being attacked wild dogs (per Mr Raam) a sad sad sight
- from my iPad
Following this we were awed to watch a complete ceremony,
With the best of the best dancers
Meanwile it is pouring rain and these guys are soaked
Great drum section
With every instrument blasting away including conch shells ( I'm limited on how many photos I post). Even exiting the Dzong we have music
Then it's 9:30am and it's time for 160km drive back to Wangi -a two pass day. At Pele La
we has a yak encounter
As well as an amazing show of Spanish moss
I couldn't photograph the dying horse on the roadside, eyeless after being attacked wild dogs (per Mr Raam) a sad sad sight
- from my iPad
Location:Dragon's Nest Resort, Wangiphodrang
Sunday, October 17, 2010
Bhutan day 8
Hotel still holds the titles awarded yesterday. Left hotel at 8:30am following breakfast as scheduled but Mr Raam was AWOL. He finally showed at 9:15 or so and then it was back up to the Dzong for another day of festival watching. But this day was different in that there were lots of tourists, ugly tourists at that! Big cameras walking in the middle of the ceremony with total disregard for the fact that this is a holy ceremony for the Bhutanese. I'm embarrassed for them. I was talking to a local complaint about my fellow tourists and commented that it all the guides responsibility to prepare the tourists. Big tips probably work for the big camera people.
The morning programme consisted of the 8 reincarnations of Guru Rimpoche
After their dance the crowd walked by to be blessed, all very deferential to these masked monks. Lots of character dancing along the way, with the underworld (jesters) intertwined
Lunch back at the hotel and as it was raining we aborted the trip to the Burning Lake and returned to the festival for the afternoon programme.
Bailed out at 4pm and retreated to the hotel - hard not too as it is soooooo comfortable. Still raining.
- from my iPad
The morning programme consisted of the 8 reincarnations of Guru Rimpoche
After their dance the crowd walked by to be blessed, all very deferential to these masked monks. Lots of character dancing along the way, with the underworld (jesters) intertwined
Lunch back at the hotel and as it was raining we aborted the trip to the Burning Lake and returned to the festival for the afternoon programme.
Bailed out at 4pm and retreated to the hotel - hard not too as it is soooooo comfortable. Still raining.
- from my iPad
Location:Hotel Yugharling, Jakar, Bumthang
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