RAAM 2010

Day 16 Medracen, Timgad, Tazoult

2010-12-14T16:30:00.001-08:00

Started off with the visit to the Constantin museum that we couldn't do yesterday (arbitrary closure). A wealth of material, well laid out. The floor mosaics are stunning.
Headed south towards Batna but first made a detour to see the mausoleum at Medracen.

Lots of unknowns - like why did it collapse (bad renno job?), why the most recent renovation just abandon the site and disappear?

No matter an impressive structure.
Then on to Timgad but before the ruins lunch at a local families house. Delicious Algerian dishes we hadn't seen before.

Our host is a retired guide who taught Said the ropes 20 odd years ago and was deactivated today for us.
The thing that is different about Timgad is the state of preservation and it's sheer size

- Djemila still has it beat in the location/situation department. There's something magic about seeing the deep ruts in the Decumanus Maximus made by the chariot wheels.

The theatre is stunningly complete, courtesy of the French.

Also one of only two known public roman libraries is here

along with fourteen (14) separate bathing complexes. The market has fabulous carvings over the 16 stalls and the public multiple-seat toilets look like a great place for a debate. Trajans arch is magnificent

and the "capitol" with it's two (of four) extremely tall columns reconstructed. This temple was a three-way venue with 3 sides of a square dedicated to Jupiter(4 columns), Juno (3 columns) and Minerva (3 columns).

The associated museum which houses the fabulous mosaics lifted from the floors has been closed for 10 years. No one knows why. There still mosaics in place on the floor of the Grand South Baths. The steps to the forum are where the famous motto: Venare, lavari, ludere, ridere, occ est vivere. (hunt, bathe, play laugh, that is life) can be found carved. Still working..

Washing machine

Next we zinged the short distance to the museum at Tazoult where we did see mosaics from houses in that garrison town. Formerly the home of the third legion (Legion III Augustus). Took a stroll to the huge (reconstructed surely) praetorium, a four side arch.

Then the fun was over and time to start the 5 hour drive back to Algers and the return flight. But dinner - Said and Faysal were all over our suggestion to return to Setif and eat the fabulous street food of two nights ago. Topped off with some pastries that involved transversing a crazy ad hoc street market where I saw an amazing knock off of an iPhone4. Chinese I was told - but aren't the real ones Chinese?
Dropped Said at home then Faysal dropped us at the airport. We insistedhe takeoff home and sleep. Now it's 2am and we are at the gate waiting for the 3:25am to Francfort.

- from my iPad

Location:Algers airport

Day 15 Djemila and Constantin

2010-12-12T23:06:00.001-08:00

Excellent choices at petit dejeuner this morning here at Hotel Setif

Walked to local museum. Best yet. Stunning roman floor mosaics and generally well presented information.

Loaded up at 10am and headed NW for 1hour drive to Djemila. Totally stunning site. Never seen anything like this as we drive in.

First a visit to the museum where an extraordinarily passionate local escorted us around the museum, just 100m from the site, and using a pointer and a scale model of the site, oriented us. Great preparation for the actual visit.
Did a majorvstroll around in a state of awe. Here are just a few pics to try and catch the scene.

Great sewer system.

Lunch at local hostelry of soup and couscous. Very good

Back in the car for the drive to Constantin, city of bridges, where we are staying at out last hotel, hotel Cirta. A fast walk, Said moves, and we are at the top of "Le rocher" for a visit to the palace of the bey. Sort of interesting

Quick stop for some baklava

and flirtation of the assistants

Then the bridges across the gorge

More walking

A few pastis at the hotel, dinner and crash.

- from my iPad

Location:Constantin, Hotel Cirta

Said's take on the desert photos

2010-12-12T22:31:00.001-08:00

Said took a look at our "tuaregs" courtesy of the iPad. He had some interesting observations.
Towa is not Tuarog but in fact a Shambi, Bedouin tribesmen who don't enjoy a reputation for honesty and integrity.
M'hamid is probably Malian, certainly not Tuarog.
Abdullah is classic Tuarog.
The way turbans (cheche) are tied is significant. Abdullah exposes a small amount of hair to indicate he is single.

Dinner last night was Shorba (soup) followed by bourek, Turkish originally but this with Algerian touch. Derricious.

Majeb was the name of the street food.

- from my iPad

Location:Road to Djemila

Day 14 addendum

2010-12-11T21:50:00.001-08:00

Forgot to mention that Said's resume includes hosting Michael Palin during his Sahara TV/book journey. Also claims to have convinced the boss (Palin's wife) that it was safe in Algeria.

Said is a "fixer" - extraordinarily so. Who else claims to fixed Colin Powell's toilet and been rewarded with a state department paid visit to the US.

(Said == Sayeed)

- from my iPad

Location:Setif

Day 14 Algiers and Setif

2010-12-11T21:44:00.001-08:00

Gruesome night courtesy of Air Algieria. Of course we were late and flew to Algiers via Djanet putting us on the ground at 6am-ish. Interesting to see plane fill up with backpacker/trekkers in Djanet - where did they come from? Our bags off the plane very last but there in the arrivals lobby was Faysal ready to whisk us to Hotel Safir.

Very grand I must say. Howard is with us but this will be the dividing of our ways. Inspirational guy - his passport has at least one set of extra pages.
Faysal preps us for departure at 11:30am. We are driving to Constantine (not flying) and with a new guide, Said.
Rest rather than sleep and then F&S are 1 hour late and the hotel can't retrieve the wifi password - go figure.
Head out to Setif this afternoon. The 3 hour drive took 4. I suspect it always takes 4. Put it down to Algerian optimism.
Said's english is spectacular. He is the total package. Guide, sometime journalist, raconteur and self-confessed womanizer. The guy is a riot and we are absorbed by his stories, his politics and hyperbole - not to forget the continual stream of relevant guide-worthy information. Great stuff. James has cheered up considerably.

Faysal is having a good time too - keep the driver happy, keep the driver happy, Algerian mantra. Unimpressive lunch in Boira.

Short debate and we decide up-scale dinner plans in order that we get wine with dinner at place in the 'burbs of Setif that Said knows - of course.

first a city walk. Really good vibe in this totally non tourist town. Historic as point if start of revolution.

Unbelievably good street food

- decided to do street food for lunch tomorrow.

13c mosque

And this crazy fountain in the main street of old town where single girls come to drink the water as it's good luck in finding a man.

Not a problem in Algeria, they are everywhere surely.
F&S getting into the swing of having cooperative tourists

Interesting architecture

Lisboa restaurant. Simple and excellent local cuisine.

Two bottles of Syrah.
wifi is acting up and needs reboot.

- from my iPad

Location:Setif

Day 13 Tamanrasset and depart for Algiers

2010-12-10T22:47:00.001-08:00

Very comfortable night in the Assakrem dorm.

Usual breakfast routine and rolling, retracing the ridiculously rough piste back to Tamanrasett. Try as we could we could not get Hassan to divulge any details for the hours before the plane leaves (sched 1;10am). Infuriating. Picked Cherry up at the 6km marker.
Rumbled on down past our campsite of two nights ago and into town. Our destination is Camping D'assine.

Excellent! rooms to change and shower with hot water. Did some laundry while Abdullah prepared the final lunch. Sardines AGAIN...

Relaxing afternoon in the rooms and then we declared a need for a plan.
Abdullah took off to see his family so we said goodbye and started handing out the tip packets.
Coffee and pastries; wifi; African market; dinner; airport.
Coffee worked

Wifi was closed of course, Friday being a religious holiday.
African market - like Djanet but 100x

Then a taxi ride across town to an Abdullah recommended venue for dinner

and back to the hotel where we hang until it's time to leave for airport some 11km out of town. Tamanrasset doesn't have much to recommend it. Absolutely zero tourists or facilities. Lots of staring, not necessarily unfriendly.

Hassan really has to go to guide school.

Finally headed to the airport at 11pm with Akmed at the wheel and Hassan playing guide. I really thought the vehicle might not make it the 11km as there was a huge increase in burning oil smell tonight. Our crew sure seemed like country boys in the big city. Before we went into town this afternoon they all put on best clean clothes and Akmed in particular was wearing his cheche very "up" - buffon style. Akmed has difficulty finding his way around town and the GPS indicates he took a very circuitous route back to the hotel after dinner.

All tip packets delivered and farewells exchanged.

Looking back there is no doubt about it Abdullah is what makes this trip work.

- from my iPad

Location:Tamanrasset

Day 12 journey up to Assakrem

2010-12-09T22:44:00.000-08:00

Very very windy but this isn't a sandy area. Cherry is up late

Abdullah has to surround himself and the two burner stove with mattresses to keep out the wind

Locals are extremely deferential towards this guy who wad making a home in the 'new' land cruiser.

Only 60km to Assakrem, how hard could that be? Hard! Eventually stop for lunch in this mainly lunar landscape but we actually find running water although this becomes a study in algae.

After lunch we soon get far ahead of the '82 and hold up some 400m short of the Assakrem dormitories - like I said, lunar.

Keeping in mind that two (2) guide books rate this as the number 1 tourist experience in Algeria are waiting to be awed.
Meanwhile it turns out we have a dorm tonight.

At 4:30pm we start the hike up to the hermitage and prepare to watch the sunset. Nice but we probably aren't doing the hike again for sunrise. The view down to the dorms.

At the summit

Inside the hermitage

And the view

- from my iPad

Location:Assakrem

Day 11 Tamakrest waterfall

2010-12-08T22:40:00.000-08:00

Usual wake up routine and a relatively short drive to the waterfall. Pretty amazing to see this much water just lying around.

Had a good granite scramble to the top where the vegetation defies belief.

The crew took advantage of the abundance of water and did laundry.

A long lunch with rear brake maintenance today.

Also enough time for the crew's laundry to dry.
Rambled through the 'burbs of Tamrangasset (ugly and garbage strewn) on to a camp site near the actual Mt. Hoggar.

Portraits today

and Hassan does fire duty.

While Towa (mystery 2nd driver) and Akmed go into town - fuel, bread cigarettes.

Very windy night - tent worthy, indigent indigenous are in the 'hood as well.

- from my iPad

Location:Tamransett NW outskirts

Day 10 Youfihakit desert

2010-12-07T22:32:00.000-08:00

Earlyish start and continued to head south to some very unusual formations.

This appears to be our most southern location as we now head NW towards Tamanransett. Stop for lunch, fries

More sand bread for the locals dinner tonight. Sand bread is made from semolina flour. Couscous too?

But the main entertainment is my first shave in 40 years

After lunch we headed north across a lunar landscape

divided by recently wet oueds. We followed these looking for wells. Eventually found one in the dry river bed and filled up.

Not much further and the midst of unfamiliar civilization

we made camp. Cherry and I elected to use tents tonight.

A little easier to keep an eye on things. Interesting sunset now that we have clouds.

- from my iPad

Location:Youfihakit desert

Day 9 Tin Agoula

2010-12-06T22:29:00.000-08:00

It's become apparent that yesterday and today are a transition phase between Tassili N'ajjer and Tassili Hoggar. In other worlds featureless desert with not much visual entertainment.
Lunch was spectacular with a green chili pepper vegetable stuff AND that cauliflower special.
After lunch crossed the Ajjer/Hoggar marker

then could see Tin Agoula off in the distance. Akmed thought we could find a better camp site. Hard to argue.
Usual sunset photo session

and another veg stew dinner with soup of course. Very tasty.

Cherry makes first cut at tip distribution:
Abdullah 100
Hassan 40
Akmed 40
Towa 20
Mohammid 20

Maybe makes a point too strongly.

- from my iPad

Location:Tin Agoula plus some

Day 8 Tadent well

2010-12-05T22:29:00.000-08:00

Major de-sanding exercises upon wakening. The stuff bag for M. Poufay is AWOL. At b'fast Cherry points out across the desert about 400m and says there is something red out there.
stuff bag reclaimed.. Celebrate with a 'bucks.

Howard fesses up to a middle night nature break - next to the vehicle in the main thoroughfare. Protocol violation.
New driver's assistant is less hostile this morning and reveals he speaks some English.

Morning prayer.

Load vehicles and head southwest then due south across a giant expanse of nothing.
No guide so very quiet in the tourist vehicle.

Mid desert vehicle maintenance on the 'new' vehicle ('98 diesel). The older one is an '82 petrol engined Land Cruiser.

Maybe a front-end alignment at the next stop.

Long long drive today, mainly south, and slightly west for 220km with nary a road to get in the way. Mid afternoon we gave chase to a herd of gazelle.

Small goat sized beasts that are very quick. Much bouncing in the vehicle as Akmed gives chase, photographic quality suffers.

Tuareg encampment Tabort a few km before reaching the well at

Tadent. Very few people around. Talent is not the final destination but another 20km south. French military fortification evident on hill tops.

Spaghetti for dinner with veg sauce.

Makhamid, number two mechanic, is a guitarist and also neither unfriendly nor unhelpful. Fireside music perhaps? No such luck.

Excellent night's sleep, cloudless moonless night.

- from my iPad

Location:Tadent

Day 7 Erg Admer

2010-12-04T22:28:00.000-08:00

Paul did in fact leave.
Good night feeling clean.
Breakfast at 7:15 in order to ready to leave at 10am
We were ready but where was anyone from or hired by Cheche?
At 11:15 helpful hotel manager starts phoning on our behalf. Mani is now in France! Must have left with Paul.
Cheche office in Djanet is closed.
Call Faysal in Algers. Mani is with him. Everything is fine!
Oh yeh?
About 30 mins later Hassan shows up in 'new' vehicle - very rough and very slow. New owner/driver. Not friendly or happy. That makes all of us.
Hassan is stressed as we amble the 8km into Djanet. Visit museum -ok. Visit market - barely ok. Buy mp3 CD.

Then we head to lunch and waiting at the restaurant is Abdullah, the cook. Good to see him. Abdullah and I head off for coffee and spot Akmed. The three if us head back to Hotel Tenere and wait.

Seems to me I just witnessed an extended session of Tuareg finger pointing.
Eventually, say another hour, lousy vehicle arrives with Cherry, Howard, Hassan and new driver plus equally unfriendly driver-helper.
The vehicles are loaded and we head off west to Erg Admer. Where's Sully?
Not 30km down the road we lose other vehicle and pull off the almost paved road into the sand to wait.
Eventually the other vehicle, containing the other 4 non tourists, catches up.
Camp on side of dune.

Poulet de sable au Abdullah avec pomme de terre stuffing.

Red meat drying on the roof rack - what's that about?

Hit the sack and the wind picks up. Sand everywhere. Worrying about empty stuff bags blowing away.

Restless night.

- from my iPad

Location:Erg Admer

Day 6 return to Djanet

2010-12-03T22:27:00.000-08:00

Pre-dawn hike up between towers.

Heading back to Djanet across wide wide expanse of nothing.

Smoke break

at the Nov 1960 Berliet expedition sign.

Stop for lunch just 18km short.
Can we get to the hotel already?

Quick visit to crying cow.

Totally different artistic style. Cool.

Arrive at hotel

Hani arrives to sort out my missing eticket.
Also to deal with Paul who has decided to bail tonight.
In Paul and Howards room I notice Howard holding a ticket.
It's mine for goodness sake! What was he thinking when I asked if anyone had my ticket on the first day in Djanet. I asked him what he intended to do with it - a blank stare.
Oh my goodness.

To add to the fun the ticket I was carrying was actually Paul's but when I asked him his last name he only gave me the last two syllables of his long polish name so there was no match in my head. (no, his name is actually Edward Paul Gatza but the ticket I held had a typo and said: EOWARDGATZA. Paul didn't recognize it so why would I? Who knew his first name was a misspelled Edward?

Now he says 'that's my ticket'. It's moot because Paul is leaving early but what ticket did he think he had?
Which reminds me, Howard asked me yesterday what the name on my ticket was, I spelt it and he didn't recognize his friends name!
Oh the insanity!

Hotel's lousy shower is great! No wifi.

Will have dinner here at hotel tonight and hit downtown Djanet tomorrow.

Paul is leaving us at 1am tomorrow!

- from my iPad

Location:Hotel Tenere, Djanet

Day 5 Tin Merzouga dunes

2010-12-02T22:26:00.000-08:00

Cherry summited Tin Merzouga.

I hiked out get the rock shot we saw on way in yesterday.

Lunchtime, the great schedule reconciliation!

Nature break elephant discovery
wild squash - donkey food.

Wild ride into Alidema

Paul sez he is going to bail.

Long lie down in the playa waiting for dinner. Stubbed toe big time.

Vegetable ragout with sand bread. Excellent
445km

- from my iPad

Location:Alidema

Day 4 dunes

2010-12-01T22:25:00.000-08:00

rock art and rock porn.

Limericks for lunch - the last ones, surely.
Rock hole water reservoir.

We saw other tourists!

Camp at Tin Merzouga dunes - climbing

Jack fell down and had to retrieved

182 miles.
Stunningly good pomme de terre ragout. Courtesy of the pressure cooker.

- from my iPad

Location:Tadrart

Day 3 rock paintings and relief sculptures

2010-11-30T22:25:00.000-08:00

Slow start. Long walk as sun comes up.

Petit dejeuner, then rolling but at a slower pace.

Sully seems to be the navigator.

The route seems new to Hassan.
Much more impressive paintings.

Long lunch 10:30 stop, lunch prep till noon, eat (delicious cauliflower-egg combo) then hang around watching Abdullah shave Akmed's head.
Finally take off at 2:30pm
The pace is glacial in this desert.

The great sand dune versus vehicle contest.

Dunes win.
Sully drives better than Akmed!
Sully takes Akmed for private dune driving 101 (we think)

Dinner, delicious soup and veg stew.
Stunningly banal dinner conversation.
Paul is unaware that he has any difficulty walking. We have now stepped into the world of fantasy.
Bacardi is my friend.

Only 19 miles today

- from my iPad

Location:Tadrart

Day 2 Finally the desert

2010-11-29T22:23:00.000-08:00

The 10pm plane finally left at 4:30am. Great... but it was going to Tamransett first and Djanet second getting us on the ground at dawn, 6am. I have to say the traveling Algerian takes a load of abuse regarding transportation punctuality but throughout they remain calm and generally good humoured, especially to us. Locals are extremely welcoming and kind as we struggle to find the right communication band, French, English, signs whatever.
Mr. Mani, a giant Tuareg, picks up from the airport in full purple regalia. He's huge and again, no English, but super friendly. He drives us 30km to where we were meant to have slept last night. We had indicated we didn't want to sleep but get driving, so with 7 bed hours in the last 64 we quickly grabbed petit dejeuner. Then a short drive to Mr Mani's house and a repacking of vehicles

as the cook, Abdullah, and his driver, Sully, show up in another beat-up diesel Land Cruiser.
Mr. Mani indicates he is staying in Djanet so Cherry and i join Abdullah, another extremely tall Tuareg in very camp gear and Sully, heading off, south east from Djanet to find our travel companions who had spent the night near a nomadic Tuareg settlement (generous description, just one family two tents).
On our way Sully drives up to a pile of rocks and tells to scramble over them. What's with guy, does he think we need a bathroom break. Then we see the incredible petraglyphs, kinda over shadow the one at Toroweap last week.

Giraffes and cattle - excellent renderings.
We eventually find the Tuareg camp,

some 50 miles out across the sand. Quite few serious 4wd sections.
What a shocker. Paul and Howard are quite infirm and in their late 70's. Howard is deaf, probably all his life perhaps a stroke, resulting in a chronic speech impediment and an air of distinctly not following proceedings. Paul on the other hand is blind in one eye and can't walk well at all.
I'm not making this up.
Somehow this meeting combined with chronic lack of sleep leaves me quite depressed. What was I thinking.....
We meet Hassan, our excellent English speaking guide, a delight and soon Akmed returns with the second vehicle with extra diesel tanks on board.
Serious desert rigs.
Much vehicle repacking and then it's further SE to El Biredj to find the famous rock paintings of the Tissili D'jassir National Park. In a word, under whelming in terms of expanse but the detail is excellent.

This is lunch so Abdullah gets cracking prepping lunch while Cherry and I set off for a hill while Paul and Howard accidentally nap.
Very nice lunch but if eating salad in Algeria is a bad idea then we are screwed. Good salad though.
Back in the two vehicle convoy through absolutely stunning scenery until the wagons circle and tonight's campsite is officially declaring after much inter-vehicle shouting in Tuaregese.
The scenery is so stunning

that I have now remembered what I was thinking.

Cherry and I take a bunch of sunset photos and build our camps. Jeepers it's dark already.
No moon so the star will be beyond spectacular. iPad astronomy kit is handy.
From my rocky perch I see dinner is being prepped while I sit up on my rocky high point drinking a stiff Bacardi, no coke, and do the one finger polka on the iPad.

We camp in El Biredj

125miles today

- from my iPad

Location:Day 2 El Biredj

Getting to Djanet 11/29

2010-11-29T22:21:00.000-08:00

So last night's 10pm flight to Djanet has still not arrived but the board says we depart at 1:45am.

We cracked the code to be able to get wifi access (1hr = 420 dinars). This was very useful to keep Kirsten updated on the latest wrinkle in our travel plans. We get to the airport tonight and Faysal has etickets for Cherry and someone called Paul Eowarza. Faysal thinks that one of the two travelers that flew last night took my eticket by accident. Faysal buys me a one way ticket to Djanet, gives me Paul's eticket and tells me to swap with Paul when we get Djanet for the return flight.
It was only after Faysal left that we theorized that no way could someone check in and get past passport check and security with a boarding pass that didn't match their passport.

Current theory: when the 3rd Journeys passenger bailed on the trip last week the wrong ticket got canceled i.e mine.

Hark, I hear a plane arriving.

Exciting times.

- from my iPad

Location:Algiers airport 1am

Algiers 11/28

2010-11-28T13:53:00.001-08:00

Got to bed at 3am. Woke to rain. Changed money in hotel and bought umbrellas.

Picked up by Faysal (last night's driver) along with Side, the guide at 12:30pm.
Walked down through casbah,

after waiting for no-show police escort.
Visited very very nice restored Turkish palace

which now houses an art collection. After casbah headed to a main boulevard and Lonely Planets top restaurant for lunch. Very fresh dorado and pomme vapor. Excellent. Free wifi too.
After lunch more driving around till we got to the two museums at the top of a hill. Entered one even though it was after closing time. Lots of roman artifacts. Concluded that Sedi's guiding and language skills aren't up to snuff. Sure it's a chicken...
Lots of traffic (rush hour) but headed up to recently restored basilica.

Following this maps out on to the car trunk and micro planning of the post desert Constantine trip. Faysal has already invited Sedi to be our guide - whoa. Sent emergency message to Kirsten to make sure she knows we don't wish to change previously made plans with Aissa. Hope she can that out before we get back.
Hand off of two bottles of wine and a wad of cash for Mr. Mani our Tuareg driver who will meet us in Djanet.
Coffee at a neighborhood restaurant - iPad slide show for guide and driver - then dropped Sedi before heading up to the Monument of the Martyrs. Impressive.

Then it's to the airport and the next problem.
Faysal has Cherry's eticket but the other ticket is for Paul Eowarska, not me. Faysal thinks this is the guy who flew last night. How would he have got through security? No, this the ticket of the Journey's traveller who dropped at the last minute. Faysal buys a one-way ticket for me and expects that I will swap tickets with mystery Paul when I get to Djanet. Fat chance. Unfortunately Cherry and I worked this out after we had sent Faysal home. Nice problem waiting for Mr.Mani.

Characters:
Faysal, possible Cheche employee and Algiers driver. Nice guy.
Sedi, Algiers guide. Nice guy but English not so good. Contested to Cheche.
Aissa: number 1 guy at Cheche Tours, in Wargla, Algeria.
Kirsten: our rep at Journeys Travel in the US
Mr. Mani, our driver in Djanet - who likes his wine.

- from my iPad

Location:Algiers

Heading to Algeria 11/26

2010-11-26T21:12:00.000-08:00

Left on Lufthansa, changing Dulles (wine bar) for 8hr flight to Frankfurt. Then things went horribly wrong. There was a gate change for the departing Algiers flight which we didn't pick up on. Result: a very long day at Franfurt airport and an unexpected Saturday night at Hotel Albert 1e.

- from my iPad

Location:SFO to ALG

India and Bhutan photos sorted

2010-11-02T10:46:00.001-07:00

Photos sorted and somewhat edited:
http://artwork.davies.com/apd/IndiaBhutan/index.html

- from my iPad

Location:Palo Alto

India day 18

2010-10-27T08:12:00.001-07:00

7:45am departure from Hampi for the 7 hr drive back. Stopped outside Kurtool to visit Bhaskar's parents house. Photos were taken. Then off to pick up wife, son and a sack of rice. Hair raising near collision with truck - bravo Bhaskar.
Back at Sree and Anitha's by 3:30pm.
Big delicious dinner and soon off to the airport and into the hands of Singapore Airlines. Could be worse.

- from my iPad

Location:Hyderabad, prepping for airplane home

India day 17

2010-10-27T08:11:00.001-07:00

Rain shower at 7am.

Took off with original guide, Seena, at 8am

Toured Sacred Center
Toured Royal Center

The Mango Tree restaurant for lunch. Excellent.

Toured Royal Center 2

Back at hotel at 3pm

7:30pm Bhaskar took us back to the Mango Tree for dinner. Excellent

- from my iPad

Location:Hampi.

India day 16

2010-10-27T08:10:00.001-07:00

Good nights sleep. Checked out of Corp housing.
Another fabulous breakfast at Sree and Anithas. White wheat cereal paste - delicious. Along with shredded wheat/rice (special for Devali).
Bhaskar and very you wife and very young son arrive.
We finally get rolling at 9:05am. Fabulous highway - two lane each way with median. The occasional truck on the wrong side of the median but nothing too scary - as far as Gooty but first we drop wife and son at Kurnool. At Gooty we head west on another national highway but this one is nothing like the first one.
Can Bhuskar read? Not well sign posted but even I could follow the way. Bhuskar very cautious and would get a verbal check at every intersection.
7 hours and we pulled into the hotel - just kind of appeared. Very poorly signed.
Basic accommodation but satisfactory. Dinner, not so much.
Decided to not visit sights this evening as it would 400Rps for an hour. Instead we negotiate for an all day guide tomorrow. Very confusing. Unethical guide competition. Who cares.
Functioning A/C

- from my iPad

Location:KTDC Hampi, Karnataka

India day 14

2010-10-23T11:18:00.003-07:00

Like i said, nothing exotic

Train got later and later so that by dawn

we were 2 hours late. As we would roll slowly

through stations vendors would execute daring running and jumping maneuvers to get on board with their produce

The 1st class AC is what we remember from 1982 but with no AC. Generally speaking the train is disgusting

But you keep your spot clean and your feet off the floor. Got to Howrah very late. Our two compartment fellows were upset - us not so much as the time in Kulkatta would be shortened. Negotiated a deal with a Mr Bijoy Saha, who we found hanging near the tourism booth, to drive us around Kulkatta all day and deliver us to the airport for the flight to Hyderabad. But first we blew $1 on breakfast for both of us

Crazy crazy traffic around the Howrah bridge and Mr Saha Ambassador

was not in tip top mechanical condition. Nevertheless we drove by the Writers Building, The High Court, St Paul's Cathedral and we visited the Indian Museum (immense, dark and boring) the Victoria museum (a less immense and brighter but still boring experience) before having a 90 minute credit card lunch

At every red light the same old indigents were hanging on the window. What to do?

After lunch Netaji Bhavan - home of revolutionary anti-Brit Chandra Bose. Most interesting stop of the day. Then, ridiculously early, we said, Ok let's head to the airport. Not a bad idea as it was a 90+ minutes wild ride through the worst and noisiest Kulkatta traffic. After checkin we treated ourselves to the exec lounge. And here we sit....

Tonight Buskar will meet us at HYD and whisks us to Sree and Anitha's for dinner.

- from my iPad

Location:Kolcutta airport departure lounge.

Bhutan day 13

2010-10-23T11:18:00.001-07:00

Woke up at Drukies and negotiated an Indian breakfast of alu and gobi parathas - with hot water to drink. Tsettim and Mr Raam showed and took us to the Bank of Bhutan where Tsettim's friend expedited some currency exchange for us. Then
we visited Tsettim's other friend at Bhutan emigration. Meanwhile our taxi dude Jaggju showed up with his shaky Tata and we fronted $1000 of the committed $2500 Rupees fare (so that he had enough money to fill the tank). Next our 3 staff shepherded us to Indian immigration in New Jagaon, the border town corresponding to Phuentsholing. Then we said goodbye to our Bhutanese staff and threw ourselves on the mercy of Jaggju. Not sure how we would have managed this transition without help from T&R.

It was a long journey, 5 hours, over horrendous roads, with a weird whining sound emitting from the Tata's transmission. Most of the journey was through tea plantations

With occasional wild life

Finally after asking directions half a dozen times we found New Jalpaiguri (NJP) train station. Had a great lunch for 40 cents and generally killed about 6 hours waiting

for this train I am on now

Our train finally left at around 9:45pm, 30 minutes late.

1st class AC is comfortable but not exotic.

- from my iPad

Location:Paharia Express, NJP to Kolkutta

Bhutan day 12

2010-10-23T10:51:00.001-07:00

Last night's hotel, Finn's favorite, seemed to be trying too hard to be something and lost the Bhutanese charm in the process. Comfortable room but the main building staff wasn't the friendly. Architecturally the building was a fine example of misused space. The hotel location, above the Paro airport, did allow closer examination of just how steep the climb out is

Notice the snow that fell last night.
Then started the amazing drive south. In a word terrifying. But before the really bad stretch we happened upon the small town of Chukna where the chief Abbott (of all Bhutan!) was doing a blessing. Huge crowds lining up for their blessing.

Even here, in town, the roads weren't up to much

It's interesting how everyone refers to the road closures that happen on and off during the day as "road widening" when really what is happening is landslide repairs. Take a look at this view and count the slides. We are looking back on the road we just came across. This 15km/hr dirt road stretch lasted maybe 30km.

Anyway we survived - hurrying lunch as we knew the 200 Taiwanese pilgrims who had taken all the hotel rooms in Phuentsholing were right behind us. We werent even able to sit down at the small lunch place as they attempting to set up the 40 seats to serve 200. The thought of 100,000 tourists/yr is comical. There is no way the infrastructure could support that many people. Eventually we dropped out of the clouds and could see Phuentsholing below.

For a local hotel Drukies isn't too bad. After checking in Tsettim researched taxi options to NJP. We got that settled and then visited the crazy crocodile/ghariel zoo where two huge crocs were engaged in a strange coupling ceremony

The evening was cheered up by going out to an Indian restaurant with Tsettim and Mr.Raam and eating a delicious meal (and 8% beer)

- from my iPad

Location:Drukies Hotel, Phuentsholing

Bhutan day 11

2010-10-20T05:38:00.001-07:00

Got to bed late as Finn dropped by the room for a chat after dinner.
Excellent breakfast at our home stay, rice porridge with Ginger and peppers.

Drove from Thimpu towards Paro and stopped at Tamchhog Llakhang to see
an example of an "iron bridge".

A reconstruction from 2005 and using original iron links that Thangtong Gyalpo, the builder of 108 iron bridges, had fab'd.

Wont get me on this thing - that a fast moving river you can see under Tshittim's feet. You can see the "iron" links on the right of the image running the length of the bridge. There are 7 strands.

After getting to Paro we headed first National Museum in the Ta Dzong watchtower above the Paro Dzong. Interesting artifacts but clumsily laid out. Couldn't get a pattern of what was going on. Needs new curator ideas. No cameras allowed, or cell phones. Generally a disappointing event and we really should have headed to Taktsang early while the sun was shining.

On then to Taktsang or Tiger's Nest Monastery.

Surely the iconic image of Bhutan. After yesterday's 5 hour hike through mud another 5 hour jaunt up the side of a cliff was less than appealing. Nevertheless it had to be done. Took us 1:30 to get up to the top but didn't feel like entering another temple so bailed at the point of the ultimate photo

The weather turned and there was lots of dramatic rain on the horizon that we could see from the top

Pleasant enough walk through thevspanish moss laden trees

particularly as 90% of the tourists do this hike first thing. So when we got up there it was relatively deserted. Aborted the plan to go buy prayer flags in Paro and instead checked into our current location.

- from my iPad

Location:Tashi Namgay Resort, Paro

Bhutan day 10

2010-10-19T11:01:00.001-07:00

Visited the Wangi Dzong.

Currently undergoing a $5MM renovation funded by the Indian government. Actual renovation has yet to start on the building but the onsite wood shop

is making huge progress towards reconstructing all the window frames, door jams, etc. Regardless the place has a wonderful, albeit falling down charm

inspired some significant subsidence on the river side. The place is run down to the extent that even the prayer wheels arebfalling apart revealing the inner prayer scrolls.

Next up a visit the the Dive Madmans temple.

Lovely walk through the actively busy rice paddies to get there.

Temple itself was disappointing, less pornographic that previous billing.

Then we drove from Wangiphodrang to Dochu La with our packed lunches on board. We ran into Kriztina eating lunch and she modified her itinerary to join us on the hike to Lungchu Seka Monastery. Estimated to take 5 hours climbing up through the rodhedendron forest to the temple. We ate our packed lunch beside the 108 stupas and witnessed an awesome rainbow

before starting off, now with two guides. On the way up we came across a yak herd.

But the biggest surprise was when got to the temple there was a special ceremony going on. We crept in and against all rules I just couldn't help take a couple of snaps.

In retrospect a video would have been great in order to record e amazing sounds.

Descent from the temple was hard.

We had to make our own trail.

Great dinner at our home stay. Met Pat and Tom and Finso came over and came back to our room for extended itinerary discussion I.e. Couldn't get a hotel room in Phuentsholing so we are going "local" - can't wait. Hotels all screwed up by the 300 person Taiwanese trip we encountered first at Yu Gharling in Jakar.

- from my iPad

Location:Thimpu, Bhutan

Bhutan day 9

2010-10-18T07:32:00.001-07:00

So most everyone thinks the festival is over but today, Monday, is the unrolling of 'the scroll'. Headed back up to the Dzong and arrived just in time to see the scroll rise -truly an amazing sight

Following this we were awed to watch a complete ceremony,

With the best of the best dancers

Meanwile it is pouring rain and these guys are soaked

Great drum section

With every instrument blasting away including conch shells ( I'm limited on how many photos I post). Even exiting the Dzong we have music

Then it's 9:30am and it's time for 160km drive back to Wangi -a two pass day. At Pele La

we has a yak encounter

As well as an amazing show of Spanish moss

I couldn't photograph the dying horse on the roadside, eyeless after being attacked wild dogs (per Mr Raam) a sad sad sight

- from my iPad

Location:Dragon's Nest Resort, Wangiphodrang

Bhutan day 8

2010-10-17T20:51:00.001-07:00

Hotel still holds the titles awarded yesterday. Left hotel at 8:30am following breakfast as scheduled but Mr Raam was AWOL. He finally showed at 9:15 or so and then it was back up to the Dzong for another day of festival watching. But this day was different in that there were lots of tourists, ugly tourists at that! Big cameras walking in the middle of the ceremony with total disregard for the fact that this is a holy ceremony for the Bhutanese. I'm embarrassed for them. I was talking to a local complaint about my fellow tourists and commented that it all the guides responsibility to prepare the tourists. Big tips probably work for the big camera people.

The morning programme consisted of the 8 reincarnations of Guru Rimpoche

After their dance the crowd walked by to be blessed, all very deferential to these masked monks. Lots of character dancing along the way, with the underworld (jesters) intertwined

Lunch back at the hotel and as it was raining we aborted the trip to the Burning Lake and returned to the festival for the afternoon programme.

Bailed out at 4pm and retreated to the hotel - hard not too as it is soooooo comfortable. Still raining.

- from my iPad

Location:Hotel Yugharling, Jakar, Bumthang

Bhutan day 7

2010-10-16T18:04:00.001-07:00

Breakfast nothing to write home about, in fact that goes for the whole hotel. Bfast merit points for crepes and curd.
8:30am start to drive from Trongsa to Bumthang. Amazingly scenic climb up to Yotong La. Upon descent passed through Gaytsa where Mr Raam's parents live (road workers) then stopped at Sangay Arts and Crafts in Chumney. Then on to Jakar and checkin to Yu Gharling. Current winner of hotel and food prizes (based on lunch). After lunch up to Dzong to watch the Bumthang Teschu (festival)

Off duty at 4:30pm and relax at this great wifi capable hotel.

- from my iPad

Location:Yu Gharling, Jakar

Photos

2010-10-16T05:08:00.001-07:00

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2092729&id=1316635520&l=fca5299364

Bhutan day 6

2010-10-15T22:34:00.001-07:00

Departed hotel and headed up to the main road and then up to the Pele La pass where we happened upon a herd of yak. Check that off the list.
Down the other side and a short stop at Chendebji chorten before going on another 0.5km for lunch at Hotel Chandbjee/Ugreyan Dorji Tabdea. Usual fair, adequately prepared.
Headed on to Trongsa, stopped at a lookout spot for Trongsa Dzong. Visited the Dzong - getting dzonged out - really tired after last night's shenanigans, not a lot of patience. Climbed up to the lookout tower/museum, Taa Dzong. Cameras to be checked at door.
Headed up to hotel. Changed rooms (bad smell) and ended up with great room with balcony overlooking Dzong.

- from my iPad

Location:Puenzhi Guest House, Trongsa

Bhutan day 5

2010-10-14T18:28:00.000-07:00

Up at 6:30am in the interests of a 7am start, hoping to hit the road construction window. Took an early pic of the hotel

Drove down valley past the Divine Madman's place then past the Wangdi Phodrang
fortress 7:32am. Then a steady climb up the amazingly dangerous road along the Dang Chu river valley. Huge drops, narrow road, no shoulder, one lane with two way traffic. Short wait at the road block

Stopped at Pele La pass. Descended to Phobjikha valley and Gantey
Goemba

where we happened upon celebrations

to commemorate the underground electricity service (paid for by the Austrian) government.
Nice people pics

Checked into hotel, lunched and then out to the black neck crane observation center. The the thankfully shortened hike (immenent darkness and rain) but did reach the observation platform on the far side of the valley and saw the solitary crane that had missed last year's migration bus.

The new home-stay farm house near the hotel was being consecrated and Tsetim wangled us an invite. Awesome

Drank to excess with Jane and Michael.
Nice room

- from my iPad

Location:Hotel Dewachen, Phobjikha

Bhutan day 4

2010-10-13T20:54:00.000-07:00

Breakfasted at home stay complete with political and racial commentary. (and phallic insignia)

First visit on a ridge SE above Thimpu, 12c Changangkha ,

where we were blessed by the cellphone monk. Lots of people bringing offerings, like chips...
Then off to Mr. Ram's neighborhood, Simtokha

Dzong.
I really liked the architectural layout of this place with monks in an outer cloistered square surrounding the temple.

Stopped on the road out of town stepped in a pile of ox shit (good luck) but got the shot across the valley

Then off to the Dachu La pass. Crazy number of tourists - not used to this. Hung around the 108 stupas

gazing at the amazing Himalayas

Then on down the valley to the Punakha Dzong at the confluence of the Phochu and Mochu rivers

Nice cantilevered bridge
To enter

Then back in the car and 5km upstream on the banks of the Phochu as far as the road widening road block and then a vigorous hike up to the 5th queen's recently dedicated temple, Ksamsum Yuelley Namgyel chorten.

Where we met an energetic nun of 89 years who smiled all the time except when I took the photo

Descending we got lots of great rice paddy views like

The sun had set and we arrived at the local hotel in the dark. Lots of tourists. Buffet dinner very tasty. No wi-fi but a hardwired connection was enough to send off mail to Sree suggesting canceling Hampi and doing Allora caves instead

I wiped out a bunch of photos with Apple' fabulous Photos app but pulled the card as soon as i saw what was happening and am hoping to restore the deleted files as nothing more has been overwritten and I put the write-only switch on and swapped in a new card. Need some SDHC file recovery s/w

- from my iPad

Location:Meri Puensum resort, Punakha

Bhutan day 3

2010-10-12T05:57:00.000-07:00

Breakfast at 7:30am of Bhutanese porridge, I.e. excellent rice congee with garlic and ginger.

Headed off down the Haa valley, stopping briefly at the "white temple" to take pic I forgot last night

Then on down the most scenic valley with ever increasing depth. Stopped briefly when Tsetim noticed a traditional farmhouse without a corrugated iron roof.

Off again until a few Km later we noticed a water powered high speed prayer wheel

Then we noticed the adjacent barn

housed a beautiful water powered rice mill

Complete with spare upper millstone that revealed all

A little further along we stopped to chat to a group men constructing and erecting prayer flags to commemorate a recent death in the valley

Then on to Confluence where two rivers meet and four highways

Then on into Thimpu, the capital, and Bhutanese lunch at the Bhutan Kitchen before visiting the Folk Heritage museum. A traditional farmhouse fully decked out with implements farm tools religious paraphernalia. Nicely done but no photos allowed - go figure.
Then off to the National Institute, Zorig Chusum, School of 13 Arts and Crafts where we saw

Then the boring National Institute of Traditional Medicine

Takin preserve

BBS tower Sangaygang great view of Thimpu

And Good views of Trashichhoe

Dzong
hike to Wangditse Goenba

Lovely monk there

After scrambling down to the road and meeting Mr. Ram we headed back into town to visit the Nation Memorial where there was a special service ongoing. We joined in walking around the chorten and taking the sights

and a bonus Art Wolfe homage shot of monks post prayer

A long day but we then headed back east again and found our home stay ,Pamtsho Lodge, a lovely family and excellent dinner and accommodation.

- from my iPad

Location:Pamtsho Lodge, Thimpu

Bhutan day 2

2010-10-11T06:17:00.000-07:00

Breakfast at 7am then depart at 8am with picnic lunches north up the Paro valley to Drukgyel Dzong

a major fortification

from the 17c built to defend against Tibetan attacks from the north.
Great views of the ongoing rice harvest

as well as seeing the horses

heading out on the 10 day Jhomolhuri trek. Normally covered in cloud but we caught a rare glimpse
of the summit.

Then it was retrace footsteps into Paro to buy prayer flags and then on in a westerly direction, past Tiger's nest,

a sacred river with water powered prayer wheel

and the Kila nunnery,

up to the pass at Cheli La where we ate our picnic

amongst the prayer flags

before hiking higher to hang our

prayer flags.

Glad of the Patagonia down jacket - cold. Retraced our steps to the car catching a glimpse of the Justice minister making a blessing

where we had picnicked. Then the descent down into the Haa valley and a minor search for our lodge. Just before the lodge we watched amazed as this really nice guy

was ploughing
a "one day" field with an ox drawn single furrow plough.
After "checking in"

and a short tea break

we headed south down the valley to the white temple, Haa

Dratshang
. Most interesting chat to a senior monk about the daily routine of a monk. We snuck a peek into the dining hall - amazing discipline. 100 monks. A third quite young, 7-9.

Then the evening stroll around Haa and checking out the suspension bridge.

- from my iPad

Location:Rinsun Lodge, Haa

Indian and Bhutan

2010-10-10T05:44:00.000-07:00

Depart late tuesday evening for 13+ hrs is a long flight (sfo to hong kong) Singapore Airlines made it as comfortable as possible. Middle seat occupied by jittery St Vitas Dance victim. Asian seafood can get boring as a meal selection
Hong kong welcome break. Starbucks did the trick. Picked up a mug for the collection.

Short stop then back on same plane for 3 hour ride to Singapore.
Singapore for 9 hour lay over. Sounds bad but free city tour

and an airport terminal transit hotel filled the time. Singapore is so smoothly run that the idea of totalitarianism takes on new appeal.

But one might just be able to live at the airport for ever - or that might seem to be the design intent. Lots and lots of authority figures abound. The city state is in mourning for the recent loss of the Minister Mentor's wife.
Board SilkAir (sub of SA) for Hyderabad. 4.5 hour ride gets done in 4 hours thanks to viscous tailwind with accompanying cabin turbulence.Sree and Buskar arrive to pick us up.
Check into Westin

Mindspace
and find that i have in fact prepaid the entire 2 night stay. Not as expensive as i had thought. Some how it is now early Friday morning I.e. 30.5hrs of travel. Ah, so that's why Lufthansa is the preferred airline/route.
6am Buskar pickup and transport to Sree and Anitha's apartment for breakfast. Excellent idli sambar chutneys and dosa. Youngest daughter ready for school bus. Elder daughter away on a school trip.
Head out at 7:30am for the wild drive from Hyderabad to Bhainsa. I had no idea what distance driving was like but now entirely understand why Sree has a driver. The two lane road experience to quite a shock but one gets used to it. (returning at night was to be a 10x thrill factor)
Bhainsa is central to the cotton industry with many "ginners" (cotton gins)
It slowly dawns that this junior college visit is a big deal.

We are treated like rock stars. "Go with the flow"becomes my mantra of the day. I unveil the dedication plaque and cut the ribbon. Lots of ceremony. Priest invokes the goddess of learning in song that is to bless the new computer room. He reminded me of a cantor in tone.
Down to the main floor under the colored tents we watch from our elevated dais

a cultural dance as the segregated girls and boys watch attentively. Theybare an impressive looking bunch. Introductions are done. Staff, supporting founders. Special guests (us).
The speeches start. English, especially mine, is not well understood, so my speech is translated into Telugu by Sree's dad who is really getting into it.
As we leave we are almost mobbed by kids wanting photos while our "handlers" aka Sree is trying to get us into Sree's car for the trip to the next event where I hear the kids have been waiting 3 hrs!!!! Jeepers. The Stones escape post-concert Altamont by helicopter, anyone?
Visit private primary school, also in Bhainsa, also funded by the same group of Sree's friends.

Created specifically with an emphasis on preserving the local language and culture (sanskrit is no longer being taught in government schools) The kids are sitting on the floor, immaculately dressed, especially the girls.
The event starts with the kids singing an Hindu hymn that is chillingly beautiful. Quite quite moving. I had no wish for it to stop even though it was quite lengthy.
Less formal atmosphere. Less formal speeches. All we, as Dyane spoke as well,

had to emphasize was that success was linked tom hard work and keep up the good work.
All quite an amazing experience. We could have been anybody. They just needed some one to carry the message and create and excuse for a celebration. Sree obviously terrified that I would freakout at the fuss. He had requested that nothing elaborate be put on the program but his wishes were ignored. All in all no problem and everyone seemed to think the event was just what they needed. Phew.
Next into central Bhainsa to visit Dr. Reddy's clinic run by him and Sree's mom. Lots of debates as to whether Dyane and I would be able to handle the difference in approach from 'western medicine'. Three floor building. Outpatients and dentistry on ground floor - packed with people, mainly women.

The young dentist was also at the school events as he too is a co-funder. OR on second floor with recovery rooms adjacent - packed with patients and their helpers (relatives). One room next to OR was the incoming. A C-section underway during our visit. The baby calm and being cared for outside the OR on the floor.

Next woman in line to have a large fibroid and uterus removed.

Yikes we are talking primitive care here. But apparently effective and cost efficient. The alternatives are grim as official care would so burden the families with debt that it would be essentially a death sentence they would never survive.
Dr.Reddy is the only Hindu doctor who Muslim women will come to see. The guy is quite outstanding in his dedication to providing care for the very poor.
Third floor is Sree's parents living quarters which is modest by any measure. Full of young people who are medical helpers being trained as medical technicians, but also being fed and directed by Sree's mom who runs a tight ship.
Lunch on the third floor complete with chicken for the special guests cooked by Sree's mom with no helpers - she refuses. The lunchtime rice actually came from the family rice paddy.
Dr.Reddy is usual called four times during the night. He has recruited two other MDs to help at the clinic. Sree's brother is a cardiologist/surgeon in Hyderabad
There is a pharmacy on ground run by someone's father and in a separate doorway an Xray machine.
Next it was off in an easterly direction through a bigger town (where Sree's dad practiced first) and on to the Uncle's

farm where he lives with Sree's grandmother

and his wife (Sree's aunt) - both most gracious.
The farm house is fabulous and brings Sree very happy memories of staying with there with his cousins.
Sree's dad and and uncle married sisters but the uncle seconded to his wife's family as they had no sons. Why did Sree's uncle move to the wives house rather than his dad.
Linked courtyards built 70 years ago

adjacent to the granite buildings of 300 or so years. Granite building has fabulous wooden doors complete with steel spikes

to defend against elephant attack (no kidding). Lots of cobras looking for rats in the corn storage area.
More food, corn donuts, and classic milk based vermicelli dish - very full still from breakfast and lunch
Then off again in an easterly direction a few kilometers, past the family rice paddy, and out of the car to visit the 14 acres of mango trees. Wistful recollections of when the teak forest reached all the way to the mango orchard

- now receding thinking that this due to either changes in the water table or human action.
Many cobra stories - too many cobra stories. Dr.Reddy's most successful medical "camp" was raising community awareness regarding handling cobra bites and getting victims to the clinic quickly following bites. He keeps large quantities of anti-cobra venom at the clinic. Vipers are endemic as well but not quite as fatal. Difficulty identifying species of snake when bitten at night. Cobra bites result in death in 2 hours.
Back in the car and heading just 4km west towards the paternal grandfather's village where the family house has failed to be maintained since the grand father's death. Beautiful, tranquil, rural area - quite lovely as the sun is setting. We stop on the way to check out the fields of turmeric

on one side of the road and rice

on the other with a tamarin tree and custard apple(?) at the roadside. Rags tied on tree branches signify they have been rented out for the season. We turned south before entering the village. Took the classic ox cart picture and ox car driver immediately pulled the cart to a halt

and posed for the next head shot.

Buskar raced ox carts! Who knew?
Then the sunset and the driving got seriously dangerous. If one ever does this again make sure to at least get on NS7 before dark. The two lane windy road leading to NS7 is crazy scary epitomized by the time we were in line behind slower moving trucks in convoy. Finally a break in oncoming traffic and the car in front of us pulls out to over take. We then overtake the overtaking car and we are now three vehicles wide on a two lane road with oncoming traffic approaching and the slower lane is bumper to bumper with no where to pull in. Some how it all turned out ok.
Then there was the case of the overloaded turn signal which indicates a right turn but actually means "please go ahead and over take me on the right". This resulted in the Buskar piloted Toyota advancing between the slower vehicles on our left and right. Straight up the middle on a two lane road.
Winner of most dangerous moment was a tie between the woman strolling across NS7 and impossible to see (not looking, not running - nearly not living) and the slow motor bike with no lights stopped in the middle of NS7.
Racing ox carts should be a pre-
Back at the Westin by 8:30pm

Oct 9th
Alarm call at 5:15am Sat 9th and Buskar in the lobby at 5:55am ready to whisk us to the airport for flight to Kolcutta and on to Bagdogra.
Hyderabad airport seems even more stunning after 3 hours waiting at Kolcutta airport. Great food stalls at HYD. Kolcutta is more of the India we remember from 28 years ago. How did we end up on Kingfisher business class?
Talked to Sree on the loaner phone. He reports expanded coverage of yesterdays events in the Bhainsa area newspapers. Apparently there had been a request for a sit down interview but this celebrity had no time!
Kolcutta to Bagdogra in a turbo prop. Uneventful. Bagdogra quite tiny and the India we remember.

Marinas Motel had a taxi waiting per my request, for the 10min drive through the tea plantations to downtown and the Marinas. Quite a little sanctuary but right on the chaotic main drag.
Didn't feel hungry enough for dinner so had a Kingfisher "strong" and hit the sack for our first non hurried hotel stay. Talked to Sree (we have his daughters mobile) and he is headed back up to the village for a party tonight. I'm not sure I could do a repeat of the nighttime drive without first time to emotionally recover from Friday nights wild ride.

Sunday 10th

Torrential rain during the night. About 5 storms went through sounding like an express train on the steel roof of the hotel.
Included breakfast at 7am, eggs bhuyija and paratha, then taxi back to airport. Much beaucracy and document stamping. But it looks as though the flight is on - nothing guaranteed with this changing weather as we think it's VFR at Paro airport.
Nice Bhutanese kids in the waiting room who loved the iPad. Eventually we had three kids playing angry birds on the two iPhones and the iPad.
In good company of the Bhutanese foreign minister. Entering bhutanese are very deferential.
Airbus 319 for the short ascent

then crazy descent down the valley winding along below the houses on each side. Weather got better as soon as were in Bhutan
Met by our guide, Tsetim, and driver, Ramm. Immediately headed into and through Paro to our hotel, Tenzinling Resort. Great suite,

very spacious and views too.

Rice harvest is underway

But best of all wi-fi in the dining room.
Lunch before heading to the 8th century monastery, Kyichu Lhakhang,

wandered around and picked up general Dzong protocol.
A quick stop at the downtown archery range

to watch a league match. Compound bows very impressive.
On then across the cantilevered unnailed bridge

to Paro Rinpung Dzong,

(fortress on a heap of jewels) finest example of Bhutanese architecture.

Monastic body and district admin offices. As we left we saw Ugwen Pelri Thang,

(residence of the queen mother) another example of beautiful architecture.
Then it's late afternoon and a stroll through the main Paro market.

Back at the hotel for dinner at 7pm. Buffet style. Other folks, 10?, are eating dinner.
Sleep.

- from my iPad

Location:Paro, Bhutan

Photos - complete set from FV

2010-06-21T13:08:00.001-07:00

http://artwork.davies.com/apd/100612_raam/

- from my iPad

Location:University Ave,San Jose,United States

Finished 9:09

2010-06-19T06:20:00.001-07:00

- from my iPad

Location:Bestgate Rd,Annapolis,United States

TS51 in the bag

2010-06-19T01:23:00.001-07:00

At 04:22
91.2 miles to go

- from my iPhone

Location:Brunswick Dr,Hanover,United States

The Finale

2010-06-19T00:23:00.000-07:00

So the plan is for Quincy van to ride to TS51. Sheeper van to ride TS52 and TS53. Then all four team members will ride to TS54, the final timed section, in team time trial format. Should be cool. Hoping to video that bit. Then there is a short parade section.

- from my iPad

Location:Pennsylvania 97,Gettysburg,United States

The track stand king at 1:14am

2010-06-18T22:19:00.001-07:00

The traffic light was red, the traffic light tuned green.

110 miles to go

- from my iPad

Location:Greencastle, PA

Getting exciting

2010-06-18T19:42:00.001-07:00

T422 and BFN are neck and neck. I think we will regain the lead by TS49 . Tim just finished a massive pull up a nasty 3 mile 8%-er. Aeesome view from here the FV.

- from my iPhone

Location:Maryland

Team swap at TS46

2010-06-18T16:07:00.000-07:00

There is only once or twice a day when everyone is together and it happened at 3:18pm this afternoon as Bill and DaveQ finished their 8 hr shift.

Tim was up first from the S van
and left everyone behind to trade stories -you guys out in the blogosphere are better informed than some of the team. D and B didn't even know about the suicidal raccoon.

Spirits are really high with just 314 miles to go.

Where's my media consultant?

- from my iPad

Location:Grafton, WV

The Day In The life

2010-06-18T09:46:00.001-07:00

I thought I would try and capture 24 hrs of this craziness in greater detail - who knew that the 24 I picked would be like this?

Raam Thursday 17th

00:00 still Following Q
2:00 where's S?
3:00 team switch Q->S 10hrs
Time change
7:30 we move ahead to Bloomington
8:30 b'fast at bowling alley
11:00 arrive Bloomington, got gassed up
12:30 checked in to Holiday Inn Express

Solid deep sleep for 90 mins
David doesn't sleep, goes shopping for S
14:00 team switch S->Q after 10hrs
Q going to now go for 8hrs
16:00 S takes over hotel from us as we leave to follow Q

16:00 eat dinner at steak house,

16:45 receive call saying Quincy is off course - that gets our attention
Bill sent ahead riding alone w lots of water
17:00 Followers start out for Columbus IN intercept
Quincy found and brought forward
We're chasing to catch before 7pm, the mandatory follow time
Can't find them, no cell service
6:03 Hear they are at TS40+4miles
Estimated off course delay is 14 mins
7:22 caught up w/ Q -darn we are late we blew it
Cute town

Brooksville
20:37 reach TS41
22:00 scheduled Q->S exchange at TS41+30.7mi aka 42J-L
ie 30.7mi in 83mins = 22.192mph - will never make
Steve extended planned exchange to safer parking area
22:19 actual meet time

Quincy van shoots off to secret resort location. Promises to be back on the road by 6am tomorrow, Friday

at 11:39pm TS42 pick up route changes. TSstaff offer us cookies

I start trying to modify route TS42-43 on fly - added 3 new waypoints. I think this will work - never tried this before

But TS43-44 change is tougher and the laptop isn't the tool for the job. New waypoints are in but autoroute may not work

It's Friday

And then ... It's 1:06am and a raccoon runs out from the right verge right Eduardo's front wheel. Huge wobble as the wheel goes right over the animal but Eduardo keeps self upright. Huge scare. Just a broken spoke
The follow vehicle really does have the best seating in the house!
TS44

Real screw up - I put Eduardo onto a freeway on ramp - we had to back up down the ramp - fast. Go Raoul.
Then I took a back seat navigating and saw us go off course. I shout too late. Crew chief thinks I'm intentionally screwing up and with holding nav info.
Then confusion, should we load Eduardo to return him to the point of a error.
A couple more screw ups then a much anticipated and often postponed showdown with crew chief. Hopefully I can be addressed as an adult rather than a child from here on. Only if I behave like one I guess.
Now the exchange van won't let us out of their sight (lost confidence in our ability to navigate -

11:24pm Tim on the road as we approach TS42 Blanchester OH

nRoute gets slow. Starts to lag by 1-2 secs. Not workable when choices of turn occur within that time frame. Unplugging satellites from laptop momently seems to relieve problem

11:39pm TS42 pick up official route changes - keepers who needs changes now.

TSstaff offer cookies

Start trying to modify route TS42-43 on fly - added 3 new waypoints. I think this will work

But TS43-44 is tougher and the laptop isn't the tool for the job. New waypoints are in and some old are removed. autoroute may not work but we should be able to track the new waypoints manually.

And then ... It's 1:06am and a raccoon runs out from the right verge right under Eduardo's front wheel. Huge wobble as the wheel goes right over the animal but Edusrdo keeps hself upright. Huge scare. Broken spoke is the only damage.
The follow vehicle really does have the best seating in the house.

1:20am Raoul exhausted behind wheel. Crew chief took 45mins of sleep this afternoon. I'm in good shape, arguments and shouting matches wake me up. Once we are through the reroute section I can drive.

1:20am rider change Tim up. Raoul sleeping, crew chief driving. Me navigating and plugging changes.

1:25 approaching detour - seems well sign posted. I bet we didn't need the reroute rework of the last hour.

S exchange can't find the new route so they are now following us into oblivion.

1:38 new route kicks in on laptop - looking good (ie doesn't send us into a field but through tiny Salem)

Clearly some copycat suicide thing going on in the animal kingdom as another animal runs in front of Tim's front wheel. Right to left again!

This is quite the country detour and I haven't seen any other raamriders this evening/morning - I'm still confident, really I am.

Why does the sound of the van flashers always seem to be in sync with Tim's pedaling cadence?

1:57 Now we have a farm dog chasing Tim looking back a little anxious

1:58 rider swap, Eduardo's cranking the pedals

2:21 rider swap, Tim up

These night time transitions are very quick. The S van has driven ahead 'n' miles and pulled off the road. The new rider waits dismounted and ready to go, for the old rider and follow vehicle to approach. At night there is no rolling hand off nevertheless the follow vehicle never stops as the new rider tags and launches. Nature breaks for the follow vehicle occupants are an issue as no one can advance down the road without a follow vehicle. We synchronize our needs.

2:33 detour complete and we are back on original course. GPS spot on. Next set of chains wont be so smooth.

2:50 aborted rider swap, we got there too fast. Reload and try again.

2:52 TS43 at Chillicothe OH - crew chief phones it in to RAAM HQ and receives confirmation number

Raoul is still sleeping - could be a record, a personal best.

2:54 rider swap, Eduardo up

Random thought that this just might be the last full night of riding if our, so far excellent, luck holds.

Worked on new route for Ts43-44 Looks good

3:23 Katja up ahead calls back to say there is a huge fire ahead on hwy50 and the road is completely blocked at Ts43+9.21- you have to be kidding

Yes there is a RAAM procedure for this - an official is on his way! Meanwhile the house looks to be completely gone with 4 fire trucks and twice as many police cars.
We are told to stop where we are. We have stopped.
Gee why did i choose today to make the detailed notes....

Raam central, Kim, approved a rural dirt road bypass with our rider on board. With time to be credited.

4:32 Once we were back on hwy50 we called raam to start the clock again
Clock starts at 4:37am. Stopped at 3:21

6:23 woke up to see S van still active, Q van chasing us from behind (the road reopened soon after we completed the detour) I see we have 10.9mi to
Go before we leave the existing course and embark on the changes given us at ts42. To complicate things Q van does not have the changes and cell phones aren't working.

6:26 E off, T on

Will Q van catch us (and exchange teams) before we leave the old course that we all know from the route books. Will S van have to extend their shift significantly?
6:30am Tim is an animal

6:32am Q van is here and will drop a fresh team. We, follow.

7am team exchange 4 miles short of cr19 detour. Took the left across the divided highway - totally wild and dangerous.

7:17am ad hoc midnight reroute working just fine - what panic? Ts44 here we come.

7:32am TS44 - we're done with this one

Follow vehicle off duty.
Breakfast

- from my iPad

Location:Athens, OH

Sheeper van leapfrogs ahead

2010-06-17T11:51:00.001-07:00

Sunrise leap..

- from my iPad

Location:Eastern Illinois

Missed Michele - darn.

2010-06-17T07:19:00.001-07:00

We knew we were very close but now conclude Michele must have been resting as we shot by this morning. We should have passed her 8 miles after TS37 but didn't see her.

- from my iPad

Location:TS37

Things that can go wrong, TS34-35

2010-06-17T07:16:00.001-07:00

We ran into a text book RAAM problem last. Leaving TS34 there is a quite short but steep pitch 8 miles into the section. As luck would have it there was congestion prior to the hill. This then led to a line of support vehicles stuck behind a tandem that was having trouble. Enough trouble to justify (in their team's mind) a crew swap mid hill. Night time so stationary handoff and the subsequent stall rippled back through the queue. All this was too much for our rider who leap frogged the traffic jam, abandoning us (his mandatory support vehicle) at the back of the line. Eventually the sewer became unclogged and we retrieved our stationary rider at a T junction as he didn't have the correct direction. Good decision to stop.
This was taking place on narrow two lane undulating and windy roads. David immediately phoned back to Sheeper van to warn them to allow extra time to advance to the next team swap position - along the same route.
Alas, it was too late. When we eventually pulled off the swap it was 3:00am at least one hour later than planned. As a result the retiring team was out for 10 hours. - a long time indeed.
Any frustrations were mitigated by the ride over the Mississippi at Alton - a very cool bridge and symbolic for any west-to-east journeys.

- from my iPad

Location:Washington, Missouri

Quincy crosses Mississippi

2010-06-16T23:40:00.001-07:00

- from my iPad

Location:Alton, Illinois

Everything back as it was

2010-06-16T21:30:00.001-07:00

Van configurations are back the way they were Sheeper van arrived at hotel as scheduled and assumed the room.

We took in some dinner

No consensus on my first choice

then hustled to catch Quincy van

All this riding is doing something special to Bill's legs - they're ripped

- from my iPad

Location:Hermann, MO

Jefferson City

2010-06-16T14:31:00.001-07:00

We are well and truly in Ozark vacation country. All very new looking buildings showing signs of robust economic vitality. Ozark lake is what justifies the activities. I'll suggest Lake Shasta on steroids. The local accents are very local, the music is very country. I was just putting down some finger lick in' goodness following a really solid 2 hours sleep.

Ken is sounding recharged..

New plan has the follow vehicle resuming normal service as soon as Sheeper van gets to this hotel. We'll grab Raoul and subject him to a double shift. Ken will get to stay at the hotel a double shift and then return to his mothership. Everything back to normal.

Tim and Eduardo did an awesome job getting to Camdenton (TS32), almost matching the ETA. Seriously rolling hills and the sun is hot, damn hot.

Rested and ready to roll.

- from my iPad

Location:Jefferson City, MO

Accommodations are ready

2010-06-16T11:48:00.000-07:00

Using the RAAM web site to predict TS arrival times Ken, David and I launched the mini-van forward to the 'burbs of JC. Here we have snagged room 223 at the Best Western (next to a KFC!, protein tonight). RAAM location 33A-BR

Raoul Raoul you took my red duffel when you jumped ship this morning. Looking forward to your arrival here more than usual.

- from my iPad

Location:Jefferson City, MO

Relief

2010-06-16T09:43:00.000-07:00

Raoul jumped ship and is now riding shotgun in the Sheeper van. We grabbed Ken for a spell in the off duty follow vehicle which is right now hurtling towards Jefferson City, MO to snag an hotel for Sheeper van after their day shift ends at 5pm.
Perhaps we three will check that beds and showers are working at spec prior to their arrival.

... i dreamt that I was a butterfly dreaming that I was a man ....

(it's ok, I'm not driving)

- from my iPhone

Location:Camdenton, MO

Rolling in to Fort Scott (TS39)

2010-06-16T09:04:00.001-07:00

This entry should be one post earlier.

An exchange during last night.

First light

Hmmm fog - a new twist

A good pull

- from my iPad

Location:Fort Scott, KS

TS30

2010-06-16T07:35:00.000-07:00

It was a tough night for everyone and sleeping at Wichita's fine Best Western isn't even a memory anymore. If I could sleep it would be just a dream.

Fog early this morning to add to the sunrise visuals (photos later)

With Terri gone and Katja and Michael not drive legal ee need to address sleep in the big vans. Currently contemplating decommisioning the follow vehicle so that Raoul and I can supplement the driving resources in the other two vehicles.
The cost will be in the time taken for nighttime exchanges.
It's fasinating how making decisions about sleep is harder with no sleep.
I'll be handing out the happy (non grumpy) pills soon - if there any left.
It will be an interesting day.

But wait ... We are moving east at a great pace. The riders are totally awesome and seem indefatiguable (thankyou spell checker)
I'm particulaly thrill to read on the RAAM site that our forecast finish time is 3:27am on Saturday morning

But first breafast

- from my iPhone

Kruisin' akross Kansas

2010-06-16T00:51:00.001-07:00

Flashing back to leaving the hotel in Wichita-here you see Raoul loading up the entire contents of the hotel's ice machine

And here we are again between TS28 and TS29 - notable for having absolutely no terms in the entire 64.5 miles.

Our shopping list now has flags on it for when we get off in the morning. These mandatory flags we fly automatically shred at speeds greater than 40mph. How about adapting our very red Sheeper tee-shirts. Walmart (lots of them around) is bound to have the real thing.

- from my iPad

Location:U.S. 54,Rosalia,United States

TS28

2010-06-16T00:15:00.001-07:00

1598/1406 to go

- from my iPhone

Location:El Dorado, KS

TS27 (28D-L)

2010-06-15T23:43:00.001-07:00

Teri left the vehicle at TS27 and headed to the hotel we just vacated. Katja in the follow van until the 9am team exchange when she will join Sheeper van

We all met at the 1am exchange 10 miles after TS27. Retiring Sheeper van headed now to El Dorado to sleep/shower

- from my iPhone

Location:Witchita, KS

Katja arrives!

2010-06-15T22:03:00.001-07:00

- from my iPhone

Location:Wichita airport

Crew exchange. aka playing hooky

2010-06-15T12:20:00.000-07:00

After TS21 mile 26.9 we do a team exchange and reconfigure. Doug leaves the Quincy mothership and enters the minivan.

Michael moves from Sheeper to Quincy along with a promotion to "navigatore supremo" aka Nuevo Doug.

With guilt in our hearts we abandon T405 and the four us bomb off along hwy 160

towards Wichita where Doug will disembark from the minivan to catch a 6:50pm flight.

We stop in Minneola for victuals and some petrol

So with our gas on "F" and our bladders on "E" we jump back on the freeway for the remaining 150 miles to the airport.

After Doug hops on the plane and returns to a normal life we three "followers" will get a hotel room, with en suite spa and masseuse, and wait for Katya's plane to arrive from somewhere in the west at around midnight. Then we will try to sublet the hotel room before head out to find the team who, serendipitously, will be very near Wichita by now. Then, the game over, we will be back to our following role.

- from my iPad

Location:Hwy 54 -off route!

The pros and cons of heading east

2010-06-15T08:50:00.000-07:00

We know we are on course every time the sun rises

- from my iPad

Location:high plains of Colorado

The Divide

2010-06-15T08:47:00.000-07:00

And that would be the Continental Divide, of course, no snide references to intra team squabbling as that would involve dRAAMa and I swore I'd never make that pun.

Despite everything Sheeper van handed off to Quincy van at the base of the Wolf Creek pass (10857ft)

Dave and Bill split the 8 mile climb brilliantly, they looked strong, The rain .held off

And Bill took the flag over the top

Carrying us over the Divide

Great descent down into South Fork and TS17
Picked up some Blimpie sandwiches and headed through Alamosa before the team hand off. We used the imprecise hand-off procedure(tm) allowing Quincy van to attack the lower slopes and the Sheeper van to take "upper" La Veta pass itself, rumored to be visually stunning but it was pitch black and no moon. What I did notice was Tim descending at 41mph and the outside temp was 37F on his way to Trinidad, Colorado. i think Quincy van got a hotel in Trinidad but the follow vehicle never rests....

Lots of strategizing in our van trying to work how we are going to drop Teri, and Doug and pick up Katya at Witchita airport tonight.

- from my iPad

Location:Continental Divide

TS19

2010-06-14T22:28:00.001-07:00

1080.2/1924.8 to go

Intermediary TS called in but not blogged

- from my iPhone

Location:La Veta, CO

TA17

2010-06-14T16:45:00.000-07:00

975/2029 to go

- from my iPhone

Location:U.S. 160,Del Norte,United States

It's raining

2010-06-14T15:45:00.000-07:00

Storm showers going through as we near the team exchange to Dave/Bill and the start of epic Wolf Creek Pass 10858ft

- from my iPhone

Location:Pagosa Springs,CO

TS16

2010-06-14T13:57:00.001-07:00

927.5/2077 to go

- from my iPhone

Location:Paqosa Springs, CO

TS10 was logged

2010-06-14T12:47:00.000-07:00

Sally, Derrick,

Yup we phoned that one in. Confirmation number 99111

Thanks

- from my iPhone

Location:(Tuba City)

Michele holding in 2nd

2010-06-14T12:36:00.001-07:00

1487 miles done. Michele leads on a standard, non recument, bike

- from my iPhone

Location:Pratt, KS

Catching up in Cortez, CO

2010-06-14T12:18:00.000-07:00

there's too much stuff happening. I cant really keep up with one iPad update per day but let's give things a try.

After the missed communications north of Sedona and the subsequent regrouping, Tim and Eduardo launched their evening ride - Tim drawing the Yarnell grade, 40 miles of descent.

Did I mention the spectacular skies?

Last night we had a classic illustration of one of the most important and tricky decisions - how far ahead to position the fresh team so that the current team gets in their commitment 8 hours?) and yet doesn't fall short of where the exchange will take place. Terrain plays a huge part in the progress the racers making; predicting rider speed is hard.
Last night we blew it with Dave and Bill and crew waiting out at Kayenta while it became apparent that Tim and Edurado weren't going to make it there by midnight (8 hours) in fact they were 3 hours too far away. A compromise was reached and the quincy van retreated 15 miles and Tim and Eduardo rode an extra 15 miles (one hour) on that terrain.
Tim irritated a 18-wheeler driver by his very presence and the truck veered off the pavement and came to a full stop in front of us with its sirens blaring for 30 seconds before finally becoming intimidated by us and leaving.
Plenty of tired riders, plenty of tired crew and mood swings to match.

While Dave and Bill took over at 1am (with us in the follow van) they forged their way through Monument Valley, (not even a moon) and on through Mexican Hat. Roadsie chaos at night

A calmer dawn exchange

Meanwhile the sheeper van beat it ahead to Cortez Colorado where they secured a motel room for a couple of hours of bed rest and showers.

The sun rose with Bill and Dave riding out the last of AZ and into lush Colorado. The whole hotel thing seemed like a good idea so the quincy van arrived to share the showers.

The motel was designated an exchange point so Tim was ready for DaveQ to arrive

Follow van occupants went shopping so by the time we got back for our showers they had checked out of the motel. No problem - a deal was struck for $5/shower. Excellent value in this situation

We swung by Radio Shack and got the bullhorn working (dont ask)
Also we think we solved the PA battery problem - mounting harness interfered with switch.

Exhausting

work has us relaxing in downtown Cortez's park.

- from my iPad

Location:Cortez CO

TS14

2010-06-14T10:22:00.000-07:00

814/2191 to go

- from my iPhone

Location:Cortez, CO

TS10

2010-06-13T20:40:00.001-07:00

607.9/2397.1 to go

- from my iPhone

Location:Tuba City, AZ

GPS app on lap

2010-06-13T19:50:00.001-07:00

iPad + S90 combo is way better than iPhone but latter is handier during short lulls in the action

Tim and Eduardo currently doing 20 minute pulls

The 8 men team do 4 (four!) minute pulls. Think about that.

- from my iPhone

Some answers

2010-06-13T19:41:00.001-07:00

Temperature: high 96f near Brawley. Low 55F last night (I can't remember where we were then)

Navigation/GPS is working really well for me at least and also for the vehicles I believe

Yes got a camera connection kit from my iPal

Communications

Captain Comm was Raoul that day. But that headset wirelessly talks to a PA on the van roof. Unfortunately battery lasts 6 hours and darkness lasts 11 hours. I just liked the picture.

Plus

CB handsets which work really well if certain riders hook them up in the first place

Plus

Sally and Joel's bullhorn which I thought I fixed before we left (corroded terminal) but now doesn't

So right now we are following Tim and it's dusk and none of the systems seem to be working. Shouting out the window just doesn't cut it

Stunning sky with 19 miles to go to Yuba City

David G sez Julian should catch a flight out and join the crew :-)

We had major confusion in follow van for a few hours after we were out of cell phone service. Funny thing, everything worked just fine without us

- from my iPhone

Location:Hwy 89 still!

Eduardo rolls to Tuba City

2010-06-13T19:10:00.001-07:00

- from my iPhone

TS09

2010-06-13T17:17:00.001-07:00

536.1/2468.9 to go

- from my iPhone

Location:Flagstaff,United States

Chasing to Sedona

2010-06-13T14:24:00.000-07:00

Follow van and operators are in action - now we have to find everyone. Sedona is where we think they and we are speeding there ASAP ie not necessarily the bile route.
The scheduled 5:30pm team exchange may have to be pulled in.
This whole guessing where to exchange is not a science or, apparently, an art.

- from my iPhone

Location:Willow Creek Rd,Prescott,United States

Catching up at TS07

2010-06-13T13:08:00.001-07:00

Soooooo, down on sleep I guess. Finally, got a couple of minutes in the van in the TS07 parking lot this afternoon after 20 hours non-stop driving. It takes the three of us to deliver the goods, Raoul driving, Crew Chief taking phone calls - about 1 every 5 minutes - and running the route book. Then me in the passenger seat attempting to forecast the next intra-team ride switch and navigate with the laptop GPS 0 which i our vehicle is working really really well. (no loud complaints from the two other identical setups in the exchange vans either)

The Quincy team took over at 8:30am this morning mid-way up the Yuma grade (some grade). Eduardo was having cramping issues so the switch came none too soon.

Dave and Bill were pumped after a good 7 hours off duty and "pledged" another 8 hours. Next team switch will be at 5:30pm local tonight.

Rolling back to yesterday's start where the follow rules are acutely strict for the first leg - we had a nice time checking out the countryside, gassing the minivan

and general living an irresponsible few hours.

Adrenalin was in plentiful supply even after the first team change in Borrego Springs

Eduardo started the parade section of the race, Tim picked up at mile 21 then they swapped on 30 minute pulls until B.Springs.

With dusk coming on the minivan true role came to the fore as the follow vehicle; protecting the rider, advising the rider of upcoming turns, bits falling off their bikes and lighting malfunctions - all in the capable hands of Captain Communicator..

During the night there were some odd things that happened - like rolling across the desert with the Union Pacific railway clearly on the GPS - 100 yards away and a massive freight rolls by - like what are the chances..

Bill took it well - just kidding....

Generally speaking the other traffic is frequent but not congested - except in one place where there muct have been 10 teams switching riders - leading to some fierce (oh please no) competition between us and another similarly capable team. Drafting? Legal separation? no problem...

Then around 3am we saw a beautiful bike, lights on, wheels spinning lying on the opposite verge. The only conclusion was the bike had fallen off another, moving, exchange van (not ours) and someone's day was going to somewhat spoilt when the bike was discovered missing.

Dawn was never as welcome as this morning when its arrival signal led our possible departure from the train.

Only problem was the rider (Tim) was flying along due east and the rising sun left a dangerous situation. We decided to stay and protect for another hour or two.

Now sitting in a 'bucks at TS07 in a Prescott shopping center. Raoul is passed out on the floor of the van (he has driven the entire way so far) David is passed out in a Starbucks chair and I'm typing this.

Our progress can be followed on the RAAM site as they post the Time Station call ins very quickly - i.e. its always current. If we call them in while we are folioing then i blog them from the iPhone.

- from my iPad

Location:Prescott, AZ

TS05

2010-06-13T06:02:00.001-07:00

8:55 EDT

338.9/2666.1 to go

- from my iPhone

Location:Salome, AZ

TS04

2010-06-13T03:22:00.001-07:00

6:04EDT

282.9/2722.1

- from my iPhone

Location:Parker,AZ

TS03

2010-06-13T00:39:00.001-07:00

3:40am EDT

231.6/2773.4

- from my iPhone

Location:Blythe CA

Comments welcome

2010-06-12T21:34:00.000-07:00

.. 69.4miles to Blythe (TS03)

I'm reading the blog too so please post questions ecouragememts etc I can pass th on to the riders. I see them often - strangest thing.

Spread the word if you think there is someone out there who should be reading this drivel but isn't

- from my iPhone

Location:Hwy 78 ...

TS02

2010-06-12T20:39:00.001-07:00

11:35pm EDT
141.9
2863.1 mi to go

- from my iPhone

Location:Brawley,CA

Following DQ

2010-06-12T18:52:00.001-07:00

Shift change, DQ hands off to Bill

- from my iPhone

Location:Anza Borrego desert

Waiting at 1st exchange

2010-06-12T18:00:00.000-07:00

Quncy van and follow vehicle (us) now at first legal exchange point. Tim apparently hauling and eating up the competition

We may go back west up the hill to meet Tim if it looks like he won't be here by 7pm

Wow and 8 person team flew by!!
(4-6 minute pulls - amazing)

- from my iPhone

Location:Borrego Springs, CA

Vehicles and crew

2010-06-12T16:36:00.001-07:00

while I'm sitting here waiting at TS01 let address the numerous comments - well the one from Julian. (comments welcome, especially nice and encouraging ones or promises of money)

Two 15 person vans, with middle two ors of seats removed and plywood subfloor installed. Each "exchange" van supports a pair of riders, Bill and DaveQ (quincy van) Tim and Eduardo (shipper van) Each vehicle has 3 crew attached.

sheeper van: Ken Sheeper, Steve Young (burgess life guard), Michael Laudenbach (eduardo's nephew) and Teri Llach

quincy van: Sig Paulazzo, Doug Fuji and Charlie (Bill's friend)

at night the rider is followed by the "follow van" smaller min-van with David Greenwood, Raoul Surcouf (DG's employe's spouse, and me (Peter Davies)

each pair rides for 6-8 hours TBD and within that time does 30min pulls

- from my iPad

Location:California 76,Palomar-Julian,United States

Waiting at TS01

2010-06-12T16:11:00.000-07:00

Waiting for Eduardo to blow by
In about an hour (5pm)

DavidG, Raoul and Peter in the follow vehicle. Strict following doesn't start till 7pm
- from my iPhone

Location:California 76,Palomar-Julian,United States

31 minutes till start

2010-06-12T13:39:00.000-07:00

Getting exciting - Eduardo to start Tim to take over mile 21.5. Other rider pair, Bill and Dave heading directly to mile 8022. Our starttime is 2:07pm

- from my iPhone

Location:1st St,Oceanside,United States

Tim's motivational

2010-06-12T12:31:00.000-07:00

- from my iPhone

Location:St Malo Beach,Oceanside,United States

Leaving our fabulous accomodations

2010-06-12T12:16:00.001-07:00

Bikes are loaded - headed to start

- from my iPhone

Location:St Malo Beach,Oceanside,United States

Van packing strategies...

2010-06-12T10:02:00.001-07:00

Two distinct approaches are becoming evident. Contrast and compare:

Quincy Van

Sheeper Van

but then the Sheeper Van has still some packing to do...

Sheeper van has developed novel crew storage techniques. You pull the crew member out with a rope if you need a new one

- from my iPad

Location:St Malo Beach,Oceanside,United States

Race Day

2010-06-12T09:34:00.001-07:00

After the evening race meeting yesterday (I played hooky) everyone got an early night. Tim chose to sleep closest to the waves..

Last minute van organization dominates the early morning. The "sheeper" van wins the prize for "most stuff". The "quincy" van even has room for a crew. Lights and flags posts got added to the shuttle vans. GPS units installed. Initial GPS training completed. Not sure how well this is all going to work. Added complexity and RAAM don't go well together

and Sig chose which of three possible positions the DOT triangle will be affixed.

One of the inverters trips out when charging the laptops so there will be an emergency trip to Fry's coming up.
DavidG and Raoul headed in to race HQ to hand in The Binder.

- from my iPad

Last minute shopping

2010-06-11T14:53:00.000-07:00

A final Home Depot run: bungy cords, tarps, pvc pipe,plastic storage boxes and pipe insulation to protect the sharp edges of the plywood shelves. Everything for full comfort

Bill braves the waves

- from my iPad

Location:St Malo Beach,Oceanside,United States

Official team portaits

2010-06-11T12:35:00.000-07:00

The inspection parking lot is packed this morning so passing inspection last night really helped:

Tim had to have 5 attempts to get a portrait as "his smile is not right" - (the first record broken for this race)

DaveQ, on the other hand, just does not get the portrait thing at all:

The riders seem happy but don't agree on who the real photographer is.

Then the most important people are invited to pose - more of a centerfold approach

Finally the mandatory pier-in-background shot.

(When is the race starting,for goodness sake?)

- from my iPad

Location:St Malo Beach,Oceanside,United States

Last minute roué changes

2010-06-11T10:40:00.001-07:00

Editing the route books with last minute changes and then off for the official team photo shoot.

- from my iPad

Getting serious now...

2010-06-11T08:23:00.000-07:00

Team Meeting:

- from my iPad

Location:St Malo Beach,Oceanside,United States

Englishmen and cold water

2010-06-11T07:29:00.001-07:00

The thing about growing up in England is that you think freezing water is perfectly fine to swim in...

Raoul contemplates:

Raoul commits

Raoul survives:

The beach is quiet this morning:

- from my iPad

Location:St Malo Beach,Oceanside,United States

Way too comfortable

2010-06-10T22:07:00.001-07:00

This house is way too comfortable - why do we have to do this race anyway?

Hanging around the house discussing personal hygene on the road. Skin rash? Don't use the wipes - who knew?

- from my iPad

Location:St Malo Beach, Oceanside, CA

Dinner at Soup Plantation

2010-06-10T20:00:00.000-07:00

- from my iPhone

Location:Marron Rd,Carlsbad,United States